DUEL 2 NEWSLETTER
Date : 02/09/2013 Duedate: 02/22/2013
NOBLISH ISLAND ARENA
DM-93 TURN-370
This Weeks Top Honors
THE DUELMASTER IS
ACES
COLLEGE FOOTBALL (1618)
(93-9405) [7-2-2,66]
Chartered Recognition Leader Unchartered Recognition Leader
POSITION IS EMPTY ACES
COLLEGE FOOTBALL (1618)
(93-9405) [7-2-2,66]
Popularity Leader This Weeks Favorite
DAISY FRYE OVERFILLED
LOW ROAD 5 (1620) BASH BROS SUITCASE (1619)
(93-9417) [2-4-0,21] (93-9411) [6-3-0,31]
THE CURRENT TOP TEAM
COLLEGE FOOTBALL (1618)
TEAMS ON THE MOVE TOP CAREER HONORS
Team Name Point Gain Chartered Team
1. COLLEGE FOOTBALL (1618) 32
2. BASH BROS SUITCASE (1619) 16 BANE'S CHILDREN (235)
3. LOW ROAD 5 (1620) 5 Unchartered Team
4. OLYMPUS MAXIMUS (1612) 0
COLLEGE FOOTBALL (1618)
The Top Teams
Career Win-Loss Record W L K % Win-Loss Record Last 3 Turns W L K
1/ 1*COLLEGE FOOTBALL (1618) 29 16 2 64.4 1/ 1*COLLEGE FOOTBALL (1618) 9 6 1
2/ 2*BASH BROS SUITCAS (1619) 25 20 0 55.6 2/ 2*BASH BROS SUITCAS (1619) 8 7 0
3/ 3*LOW ROAD 5 (1620) 14 16 1 46.7 3/ 3*LOW ROAD 5 (1620) 7 8 1
4- 4*OLYMPUS MAXIMUS (1612) 9 18 2 33.3 4- 4*OLYMPUS MAXIMUS (1612) 1 4 0
'*' Unchartered team '-' Team did not fight this turn
(###) Avoid teams by their Team Id ##/## This turn's/Last turn's rank
TEAM SPOTLIGHT
WARRIOR DESIGN
Instead of a full-blown tutorial, I thought perhaps a look at the last 100 or so
Consortium graduates would be a lesson in-and-of-itself. Take a look.
Coach Rah Rah, Consortium affiliated.
ST CN SZ WT WL SP DF fave weap style
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
9 16(+2) 5 21 9 5 21 FI AB
Aimed blow, one example, DF of 21--generally a goal for an aimer. Only stat raises
the two times on CN; hard to raise stats with a 9 WL, must have taken several turns!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
ST CN SZ WT WL SP DF fave weap style
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
1 16(+1) 10 6 21 15 10 7 QS BA
2 15(+1) 15(+1) 15 17 9 8 7 MA BA
3 18 11 5 15 10 18 7 ME BA
4 14(+1) 11 16 17 9 13 5 LG BA
5 13 10 9 17 9 21 5 MA BA
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
6 15(+1) 9 15 15 16(+1) 10(+1) 7 GA BA
7 13 13 12 17 9 13 7 ML BA
8 12(+2) 18(+2) 15 9(+2) 18(+2) 7(+1) 15(+1) BA BA
9 14(+2) 4(+1) 12 18(+2) 17(+1) 6(+1) 21(+1) LG BA
10 11 12 12 15 9 14 11 MS BA
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
11 13 5 19 15 9 16 7 WF BA
12 17 10(+1) 14 17 9 9 9 WH BA
13 21 4 10 17 9 12 11 ML BA
14 21 12(+1) 20 15 9 3 5 MS BA
15 13 19 11 15 9 10 7 HL BA
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
16 15 4(+1) 13 21 17 8 7 ML BA
17 13 15 15 15 9 10 7 GS BA
18 15 3 17 15 9 12 13 GS BA
19 17(+2) 16 7 21 9 9 7 MA BA
20 17 5 8 15 17 16(+1) 7 BA BA
Twenty bashers. No starting ST less than 10, most higher. Only one stereotypical
"Dumb Basher" with a starting WT of 7, and WL was high enough to raise it a couple of
times. Few or no stat raises with a WL of 9 (the lowest). DF often low, clear down
to 5.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
ST CN SZ WT WL SP DF fave weap style
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
1 11(+2) 14(+3) 16 15 19(+2) 9 7 LS LU
2 21(+1) 14(+3) 6 15(+1) 17(+1) 8(+1) 11(+1) EP LU
3 15(+1) 10(+1) 7 15 21 7 11 SH LU
4 9(+1) 15(+1) 11 17(+1) 17(+1) 14(+1) 7(+1) LS LU
5 11 15(+2) 10 17 16(+1) 7 11 LS LU
6 12(+2) 11 9 17 18(+1) 10 11(+1) SS LU
7 9(+2) 9 10 21 21 5 11 SS LU
8 11(+1) 11(+1) 14 17(+1) 17(+1) 8 11(+1) LS LU
Eight lungers. Always smart, always high WL, DF medium. No CN lower than 9.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
ST CN SZ WT WL SP DF fave weap style
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
11(+1) 17 13 21 9 3 11 LO PL
One parry-lunger (plunger). Looks to me like a case of "what can I do with this
one?" I asked, and was told that this was not a default, it was on purpose. Okay.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
ST CN SZ WT WL SP DF fave weap style
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
11(+2) 11(+2) 13 18(+1) 21 4 11 SS PR
Only the one ripper (note that there are no parry-strikers in this list). With such
a small sample, generalization is impossible.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
ST CN SZ WT WL SP DF fave weap style
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
10(+1) 9 13 17(+1) 17(+1) 12(+1) 11(+1) SC SL
11(+2) 7 15 15(+1) 21(+1) 10(+1) 11(+1) SH SL
7(+2) 9 13 21(+1) 21(+2) 10 9(+1) SC SL
11 7(+1) 14 15 16(+1) 8 15 SC SL
9(+2) 8(+1) 13 15(+1) 20(+2) 20(+1) 7(+1) LO SL
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
11(+1) 9(+1) 11 17 18(+1) 10(+1) 13(+1) EP SL
11 6 13 21 15 7 11 GA SL
11 9 11 15 15 12 11 SC SL
11(+1) 8 11 17 17 10 11 GA SL
11(+1) 13(+1) 12 17(+1) 21(+2) 8 7 SC SL
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
11 11 9 17(+1) 17 10 11(+1) BS SL
11(+1) 10 10 15(+1) 18(+1) 12(+1) 13(+1) HA SL
15(+1) 7(+2) 6 17 17 15(+1) 11 EP SL
15(+3) 7(+1) 16 17(+1) 21(+1) 8 7(+1) HA SL
Fourteen slashers. Generally low CN, high WT and WL, medium ST and DF.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
ST CN SZ WT WL SP DF fave weap style
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
9 10 17 17 9 11 11 HA ST
15(+1) 4(+1) 10 15 15 14 13 GS ST
11(+1) 5 18 15(+1) 17(+1) 8(+1) 15(+1) BA ST
12 6 15 21 9 10 11 FI ST
11 9 9 15 9 18 13 ML ST
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
12(+1) 9 6 21 10 16 11 SH ST
11 5 13 15 9 14 17 BS ST
12 9 15 14 7 6 21 BS ST
15(+1) 10 7 21 9 12 11 HA ST
9 13 11 17 9 10 15 BA ST
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
11 9 11 17 15 10 11 HA ST
17 11 6 15 9 15 11 MS ST
11(+1) 9 13 15(+1) 17(+2) 14(+1) 11(+1) WH ST
11 12 6 17 7 14 17 BA ST
10(+2) 9(+1) 5 21 21 10 11 ML ST
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
13(+1) 7 16 15 9 8 17 SH ST
12 5 16 17 9 14 11 FI ST
11(+1) 15(+1) 7 15(+1) 17 16 7(+1) GA ST
12(+1) 11 9 15 9 16 13 LS ST
11 11 14 17 9 9 13 BS ST
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
11 12 12 17 9 16 7 MA ST
11(+1) 6 10 21 17 5 15 HA ST
9 10 16 17 9 8 15 HA ST
15 6 11 21 9 11 11 GA ST
12(+1) 5 12 21 10 8 17 SM ST
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
9 10 12 21 9 6 17 SH ST
11(+1) 5 11 17(+1) 17(+1) 14(+1) 13 WH ST
Many with a relatively low WL, all with a high WT; ST and DF usually moderate.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
ST CN SZ WT WL SP DF fave weap style
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
12(+2) 18(+2) 14 8(+2) 19(+2) 7(+1) 17(+1) SC TP
14(+2) 19(+2) 13 7(+1) 21(+3) 9 11(+2) BS TP
13(+2) 21(+1) 17 7(+1) 16(+2) 10(+1) 9(+2) SM TP
15(+3) 19(+3) 8 7(+3) 21(+3) 6(+1) 21 BA TP
15(+2) 18(+2) 12 7(+2) 21(+1) 8 11(+1) LS TP
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
12(+2) 20(+3) 14 11(+2) 21(+2) 10(+1) 9(+3) SC TP
14(+2) 20(+2) 10 11(+1) 21(+2) 6(+1) 11(+1) BS TP
15(+2) 21(+3) 9 11(+2) 20(+1) 10 9(+3) SM TP
12(+2) 21(+3) 10 9(+2) 21(+2) 9(+1) 13 GS TP
15(+3) 21(+2) 10 7(+2) 21(+2) 12 9(+2) EP TP
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
16(+2) 18(+2) 14 7(+2) 21(+1) 6(+1) 12(+2) SC TP
12(+2) 20(+3) 7 7(+2) 21(+1) 15 11(+1) LG TP
13(+3) 21(+3) 9 5(+2) 21(+1) 17(+1) 11(+1) LO TP
19(+2) 17(+2) 18 6(+2) 17(+2) 11(+1) 7(+2) SM TP
12(+2) 18(+2) 10 8(+2) 21(+2) 11(+1) 15(+2) BA TP
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
12(+2) 21(+2) 10 11(+2) 21(+2) 10 9(+2) SC TP
13(+3) 12(+2) 10 5(+1) 19(+2) 11(+1) 15(+1) SC TP
15(+3) 21(+1) 8 7(+2) 21 6(+1) 15(+2) SC TP
15(+3) 18(+2) 16 10(+2) 18(+2) 5(+1) 14(+2) GS TP
18(+2) 17(+2) 13 11(+1) 19(+2) 4(+1) 11(+1) BA TP
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
17(+2) 17(+2) 12 9(+2) 21(+2) 8 10(+2) GS TP
16(+2) 17(+2) 15 8(+2) 18(+2) 10 9(+1) BS TP
15(+2) 17(+2) 9 8(+3) 21(+2) 8(+1) 17(+1) LO TP
19(+3) 21(+3) 10 7(+3) 21(+2) 10(+1) 11(+3) EP TP
16(+4) 21 14 7(+3) 20(+3) 7(+1) 12(+2) GS TP
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
15(+2) 19(+3) 12 7(+2) 21(+1) 5(+1) 17(+2) ME TP
15(+3) 21(+2) 13 11(+1) 20(+3) 6(+1) 10(+2) SM TP
16(+3) 19(+2) 10 8(+3) 21(+3) 10(+1) 14(+2) EP TP
High CN and WL always, generally high ST, WT generally low. SZ varies.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
ST CN SZ WT WL SP DF fave weap style
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
12(+1) 13(+1) 15 17(+1) 17(+1) 3 11 QS WS
15(+2) 14(+1) 11 15(+1) 17(+1) 6 11 WF WS
13(+2) 17(+2) 10 17 17 3 11 GS WS
11(+1) 14(+1) 11 17(+1) 17(+1) 8 11(+1) GA WS
13(+2) 18(+1) 6 17(+1) 21(+1) 4 11(+1) MS WS
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
13(+2) 18(+1) 6 16(+1) 18(+3) 9 11 BA WS
12(+1) 15(+1) 10 16(+1) 16(+1) 8 11 WF WS
14(+2) 17(+2) 6 15 17(+2) 5 15 MS WS
13(+2) 13(+1) 14 15 18(+1) 4 11 WF WS
12(+1) 17(+1) 6 17 15 6 13 SC WS
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
13(+2) 17(+1) 15 11(+1) 21(+1) 6(+2) 11(+2) BA WS
Always high WL and WT, mostly high CN and ST, moderate DF.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
ST CN SZ WT WL SP DF fave weap style
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Note that with a single-digit WL (rare in this list), there are few or no stat
raises. When your WL is low, you're stuck with the other stats because raising them
is hard. The stats are from the Consortium, the comments are Jorja's.
* }%|[-----+O+-----]|%{ * }%|[-----+O+-----]|%{ * }%|[-----+O+-----]|%{ *
Assur's Guide to Pure Defensives
1) Design
In creating a pure defensive, the things that you should be concerned about are:
Hit Points, Carry Ability, Endurance, and your skills in parry and/or defense.
Again, other attributes and skills can't hurt, but those are the vital attributes for
how you'll be fighting.
Hit Points come from Constitution (mostly), Size, and Will
Carry Ability comes from Strength and Constitution, though if your Strength is
lower than your Constitution, the carry ability only comes from your Strength.
Endurance comes from Strength, Constitution, and Will (especially Will)
You get Parry Skills at
Str: 5, 7, 15, 17, 21, 21
Siz: (5), (7), (15), (17), (21), (21)
Wil: 5, 7, 15, 17, 21, 21
Dft: 5, 7, 9, 11, 11, 13, 15, 17, 21, 21
You get Defense Skills at
Siz: (5), (7), (15), (17), (21), (21)
Wit: 5, 7, 9, 11, 11, 13, 15, 17, 21, 21
Wil: 5, 7, 15, 17, 21, 21
Spd: 5, 7, 15, 17, 21, 21
Dft: 5, 7, 9, 11, 11, 13, 15, 17, 21, 21
Note that for parry and defense skills in size, you get penalized for having higher
sizes.
For parry based styles, it is highly recommended to have 11+ strength and as much
will as you can get. Eleven deftness is also very nice. You can't have too much
constitution. It is recommended to not be too big, because you don't typically have
enough points for the stats you really want. Wit is nice, but not necessary. Almost
always, 1 point of con is better than 1 parry skill.
For dodge based styles, it is much tougher. ABs are usually made with 21 deftness
because they get attack skill bonuses, but for a pure defensive dodging AB, the
deftness isn't as vital. If you're going open handed, strength can be sacrificed. I
do not know as much about pure defensive AB's, especially in basic. I have two that
I plan to try out soon (3-21-11-11-10-7-21 and 9-17-12-11-7-7-21) Mine will fight as
Rookies and then in the arena. For Lungers, you want lots and lots of endurance.
Twenty-one will and as much strength and constitution as you can get. Low size is
highly recommended for dodge based defensives.
High speed is not desired on either, simply because you want those points elsewhere.
2) Style Choice
There are two routes to go in choosing a style. A parry based style or a defense
based style. The traditional choices are the parry based styles (any style that
learns parry naturally). Style is almost irrelevant, because in most of these
fights, a couple of parry skills or endurance burn doesn't come in to play. There
are times when it does, which is what makes Total Parries the king, but all of these
styles can be very, very successful as pure defensives.
Total Parries are the most common pure defensive on the sands. There are plenty
of nicknames for Total Parries who are pure defensives, because of how frustrating it
can be to face them. They learn parry and defense skills naturally, are well suited
to all of the shields, and often ignore opportunities to attack. They also have the
highest parry base in the game.
Parry Strikers would be my next choice. They conserve endurance better than any
of the other parry based pure defensives. They learn parry naturally. They are well
suited to the Small Shield.
Parry Ripostes conserve somewhere around the same level as Total Parries. They
learn parry skills naturally. Because they also learn so many riposte skills, even
running defensive strategies they will tend to try to gain the initiative. They are
one of the best natural hybrids, but they make fine pure defensives as well.
Parry Lungers burn endurance much faster than the styles listed above. They
have much higher skill bases overall, but their parry is the same as Parry Ripostes
and Parry Strikers. They learn parry naturally.
Wall of Steels have the potential for the highest parry in the game. Total
Parries will never be bonused in parry skills, so while they start with the most, a
Wall of Steel can be bonused and start with two more parry skills than any other
style can. On the other side of things, they burn endurance faster than any of the
other styles listed and typically use heavier weapons. Like Parry Lungers, they have
a higher overall skill base, but for the discussion of the pure defensive, those
other skills don't matter as much.
The other option is a dodge based Pure Defensive. Most of the time, these styles are
run as hybrids in later minutes, but they both have the ability to run as pure
defensives for an entire fight.
Lungers are the king in basic. They learn defense naturally and have the
highest starting defense in the game. In fact, they are the only style other than
Total Parries that learn defense naturally. On the down side, they burn endurance
fast.
Aimed Blows are the other style that typically runs as a pure dodge defensive.
I do not know much about these warriors, but watching them is a thing of beauty. In
ADM, when they can start going open handed without concern, they rule the game, but
even in basic, they can be very successful. The down side for them is that they do
not learn defense skills naturally, so you're really hoping it is their favorite
learn.
As always, any style can be run as a pure defensive, for part of a fight or an entire
fight. The styles listed above are merely the traditional choices. And realize that
the dodge based styles I list are often run as hybrids in later minutes. The line
between a pure defensive and a hybrid is often blurred, because even some Total Parry
pure scum will attack and win fights after their opponent is exhausted (which is one
of the hybrid strategies I will mention later).
3) Weapon Selection (with requirements)
If you aren't planning to attack, it hardly matters what weapon you use, right?
Typically, parry based pure defensives use an off hand shield (and often a main hand
shield)
Large Shield (13 Str, 3 Wit, 7 Dft) (10+ Dft to use in off hand, depending on Main
hand weapon)
Medium Shield (9 Str, 3 Wit, 5 Dft) (7+ Dft to use in off hand)
Small Shield (5 Str, 3 Wit, 5 Dft) (7+ Dft to use in off hand)
ABs often use their Fists, because they get a bonus to their ability to dodge.
As with style choice, weapons selection often does not matter for these fights. The
fight outcome is more a function of your opponent's ability to take you down or wait
you out, not on your abilities or skills.
Main hand weapon is whatever you are well suited to. For low wit warriors, BA or
one of the spears are decent choices.
4) Strategy and Tactics
For your parry based pure defensive, 1-1 Parry or 1-1 Open works great. The response
tactic has some interesting uses, especially in minute 1 or minute 6. Note that this
strategy will usually make your fights quite boring to read, especially the 1-1 parry
strategy. This strategy and type of warrior is not meant to be fun, but good ones
can amass amazing records, especially before Advanced Duel2. Your best challenges
are styles that burn their endurance fastest (Lungers, Wall of Steels, and Parry
Lungers).
For the dodge based pure defensive, High Activity Level is important. How high
depends largely on your warrior. Experiment to find what works best. Offensive
Effort is typically low. Dodge or Open for tactics.
Once again, the line between pure defensive and hybrid can become very blurred. Not
attacking at all may not be your best way to win fights. What if in a later minute
you raise your offensive effort and do not use a defensive tactic? You're suddenly
not fighting as a pure defensive. For many warriors, this is a much better strategy
than simply trying to wait until your opponent drops from exhaustion. The mechanics
of the game can allow for some very strange results. I had a basher with very little
endurance and 3 will refuse to drop from exhaustion and finally won after 6 minutes
against a total parry. This is probably more important for dodge based defensives,
but can also be true for parry based defensives.
5) Armor
APA/F is the norm. ASM/x is a nice choice, especially against that nasty SC.
For dodging defensives, it is not a good idea to wear more than you can carry.
Hopefully you have lots of strength and can carry APA and a F.
+ ]H[ + ---:--- + ]H[ The Lighthouse ]H[ + ---:--- + ]H[ +
I thought I'd say few words today about styles and challenges. You have all
seen--or will see before you leave Noblish Island (it runs on turns numbered ending
in 3), this chart (and I thank Magic Man for making it available):
KEY FOR ODDS OF WINNING:
1 - ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE 6 - BETTER THAN EVEN
2 - HARDLY LIKELY 7 - GOOD CHANCE
3 - NOT MUCH 8 - HIGHLY PROBABLE
4 - SLIGHT CHANCE 9 - MOST DEFINATELY
5 - 50/50 10 - ALMOST GUARANTEED
Reminder: Left Row vs Top Column
BA ST LU SL AB TP PS PL PR WS
BA 5 2 6 6 8 9 7 6 5 6
ST 8 5 8 9 9 6 7 5 6 4
LU 4 4 5 6 10 5 7 7 9 6
SL 4 1 5 5 8 6 8 7 8 9
AB 2 2 2 4 5 10 6 6 6 7
TP 3 4 6 4 1 5 7 8 6 5
PS 3 3 3 4 5 4 5 4 5 4
PL 5 4 3 3 6 2 7 5 7 6
PR 7 5 2 2 4 5 6 3 5 4
WS 5 8 6 2 4 6 7 5 6 5
I consider this chart to be a fertile topic for debate, possibly even
acrimonious debate. There is some truth in it, I don't dispute that. And it is to
this chart, usually, that managers refer when they speak of some warrior having "the
style advantage" over another. But I believe that other factors than style are at
least as important, and perhaps MORE important, such as the relative skill of the two
managers and two warriors involved.
But, as I say, there is some truth in it, especially where the managers and
warriors are on a level of experience. Therefore, information on the styles of other
warriors in a given arena is important, so you can gauge your challenges and avoids
to give you the best chances for winning. This is one of the things alliances do for
their members--provide a forum for exchanging style information. It is also the
reason why experienced managers generally regard it as bad form to reveal a warrior's
style in the personals. [Exceptions to this--when the warrior in question has been a
stylemaster, and when the warrior in question is graduating.] Style information is
valuable; you, or somebody, fought to get it, so it shouldn't be given away.
But there's more to "style knowledge" than simply being able to say, "X has the
style advantage over Y." You have to use your information. Note that "offensive
warriors" are bashers, lungers, strikers, and slashers. Defensive styles are those
with "parry" in their names. Aimed Blows and Walls of Steel are ambiguous and may be
considered--and run--either way.
If you KNOW or even just suspect that you have an offensive warrior who will be
facing a defensive warrior, you can adjust your strategy accordingly. You change
your armor and the speed with which you're running the warrior to pace him for a long
haul, perhaps. (And this is the adjustment that most often needs to be made.)
Or if you've got an offensive warrior facing another offensive, you can do the
same--slow your warrior's pace--and hope to take out your opponent in the second
minute when he's gasping for breath. Of course, you have to survive the first minute
somehow. More armor, perhaps, or defenisve tactics. But it's a fact that,
especially in the lower levels of the game, many offensive warriors DO burn out by
the end of the first minute or shortly thereafter. So if you're paced for that, you
may be surprised at some of the wins you can get.
Jorja
The Middle Way
+<]H[>+-----+<]H[+ Question of the Week #10 +]H[>+-----+<]H[>+
The Question, Aruak City (dm 11), turn 426:
If a warrior is wearing plate and he is hit on the hand or ankle does he get the same
amount of protection? It seems to me the most you could wear on your hand is
Chainmail. -- Hanibal, Q.O.W.
The Answers, turn 427:
Q.O.W. -- I think if you wear armor of chainmail or lighter, the protection to your
limbs is limited, certainly not to a degree equal to the armor you are wearing over
the body. But I think with platemail or full plate, the armor protects your limbs
well. Gauntlets, which I imagine being used with platemail and up, are steel plates,
so they protect better than chain. I think this is played out well in our fighters'
fights. I've seen chain wearing warriors who are tough go down with one shot to the
leg, while the same warrior in platemail takes one or two more hits. You'd be
surprised at how well medieval gauntlets' metal plates flexed for hand movement. --
Adie
QoW -- When using heavy armor, the limbs seem to be less well protected than the
chest and abdomen. I base this observation mainly on the number of ineffective
("bounced") hits seen against the torso compared to the limbs. The lighter armors
don't seem to have this difference. -- Generalissimo Puerco
Hannibal -- Questions! Great, I've missed them. Unfortunately, I can't offer much
help on this. I do know that to rely on "it would logically seem that" is the way to
get into trouble, unfortunately. After all, it would logically seem that a basher
should be well-suited to using the fist, and this is not so. So I can't guess about
the "armor for hands and feet" question. -- Leeta
Hannibal -- Take a good look at a suit of full plate some time. Everything EXCEPT
the head is protected, unless you're wearing a helmet of some sort as well. If
you're going to have warriors wearing APA, you better put them in a Helm or a Full
Helm as well, otherwise you may as well send them out in leather. A hit to an
unarmored head and your APA is worthless. -- Talon, War-Priest of Mantor the Bright
The Question, Aruak City (dm 11), turn 427:
All -- I was looking at a fight a few turns ago with Predator (Broadsword fav). In
min 1 he attacked 12 times w/ BS and only 1 crit. Min 2 six normal attacks, weapons
breaks, pulls his epee and throws three crits in a row. He always threw more crits
using an epee even though he is -6 in Deftness to use it. He used a BS in two other
fights with no crits. This makes me wonder; are favorites generated after your
warrior graduates? -- Hanibal Q.O.W.
The Answers, turn 428:
Q.O.W. -- From my understanding, favorite weapons are generated when your warrior is
created, and the bonuses are applied in basic. However, I have experienced similiar
situations to what you have seen with Predator. I have a lunger who never seemed to
throw a crit with the short spear, but constantly threw crits with the longspear even
though he wasn't quite suited to it in strength or deftness. I felt certain the
longspear was his favorite weapon because of this, and was highly shocked when upon
graduation the shortspear was listed as his weapon of choice. -- the Outsider
Hanibal, Q.O.W. -- From what I have experienced and discussed with other managers,
fighting rhythm, weapon, learns and tactics are determined upon creation. Did you
change rhythms during any of these fights? Was your attack rating high or low at the
time? If all is the same, and you throw more crits with an epee, maybe you should
send your "favorite weapon" to hell and go with what works. After all, the whole
point of finding your fave weapon is to increase your crit percentage. Although, it
would be nice to have BS crits over the EP crits (except for the knockdowns!) -- Dr.
Strange
QoW -- Well, now you're understanding why I don't make too much of an effort to try
to find a warrior's "favorite" weapon. Finding a weapon they win with is much more
important, and Predator certainly had no problem winning. I think people have had
enough cases where a suspected favorite weapon was confirmed to suggest that a
warrior's favorites are determined before AD, but the exceptions such as Predator's
are numerous. I'll bet Adie will have more to say on this matter, since it seems
like it happens to her warriors a lot. -- Generalissimo Puerco
Q.o.W. (Fav Weapons) -- I was the closest thing the KoV had to somebody who found
their favorite weapon in basic. But since I got my advanced master in attack so soon
it's hard to tell. We really haven't noticed our warriors having a favorite weapon
in basic. I personally think there may be something to what you're saying. But I
think most people believe that it's there all along. -- Maxwell Honorblade
Hanibal's Question of the Week -- No, favorites are generated when the warrior is
first created. Unless you get a favorites-prize and use it on a warrior, his
favorites always and forever remain what they were at the time of generation. --
Leeta
Q.O.W -- BS favorite and no crits sounds typical for a lot of warriors. Or GA...or
BA...or even SC. Sometimes, favorite weapons just don't serve. I have a WS in
Primus with GA favorite and Grandmaster Attack who throws more normals than crits
with her favorite. To make matters worse, I have a LU in Primus with Archmaster
Attack who still throws normals...with her favorite and with LO. Some warriors, in
my experience, just don't throw crits like they should. Others will go crazy with
their favorite weapon in basic, right from the start. I've discovered many favorite
weapons that way over the years...then again, I've also THOUGHT I'd discovered
favorite, only to have them be something else. I've always thought that somewhere, a
bit is kept with each warrior for how experienced they are with any given weapon...
and if you use a weapon enough, you get better with it (skills not withstanding). I
can't prove it, but watching some of my LS and SS, SH and MS favorite warriors using
SC and LO, you see improvement over time, even when they aren't getting more attack.
-- Talon Warsmith, Epee favorite <grin>
Hanibal, Q.O.W., favorites are born with the warrior. It's just that sometimes they
seem hard to believe. -- Kennelworth
Q.O.W. -- I've always understood that a warrior's favorite weapon is generated right
at the beginning. I have however, had the similar experience of throwing more crits
with a non-fav weapon. -- Anti
* }%|[-----+O+-----]|%{ * }%|[-----+O+-----]|%{ * }%|[-----+O+-----]|%{ *
---===FREE BLADES REGIONAL NEWS===---
Duelmasters
-----------
DM 9 ZUKAL (turn 715): DEBARROWS of CRIMSON DEATH (Verol, mgr.)
DM 12 RIZTAB (turn 717): HERMIAS of DREAMERS (Sleepy, mgr.)
DM 13 DULLENS (turn 664): GOLDENEYE of CARDOW HUNTERS (Jorja, mgr.)
DM 15 MALCORN (turn 711): LUCK DEVIL of THE DEVIL'S OWN (The Dark One, mgr.)
DM 16 WILLAF (turn 713): GOLDPLATED of GOLDEN GLADIATORS (Midas, mgr.)
DM 17 ALJAFIR (turn 704): FENSTER GOLLY of MIDDLE WAY (Jorja, mgr.)
DM 19 ZUWAYZA (turn 705): SIR BLUEBELL of LORDS INC. (Lord Z., mgr.)
DM 28 MORYA (turn 355): LILY OF SARMATIA of DODGE BULLETS (Jorja, mgr.)
DM 29 LAPUR (turn 702): POSITION IS EMPTY
DM 31 CHIMLEVTAL (turn 352): DRONE-ON of BAD NEWS BEES (Stinger, mgr.)
DM 32 ARVAT (turn 699): TRUST BUSTER 1 of SEGUE CARTEL (Zalgor Prigg, mgr.)
DM 33 NIATOLI ISLAND (turn 696): HULL SCRUBBER of SEA DOGS (One Armed Bandit, mgr)
DM 35 MURSKA (turn 688): GRINCH of BAD GUYS (Mr. Bad Guy, mgr.)
DM 43 VEASTIAN (turn 643): ARCHERS OF LOAF of UNC COLLEGE RADIO (Floyd, mgr.)
DM 45 STORMCROWE (turn 330): ROSELYN of DARQUE FORCES (Master Darque, mgr.)
DM 47 NORTH FORK (turn 324): SOUTH SPOON of OTTODROME TW (Otto X, mgr.)
DM 50 SNOWBOUND (turn 311): MOLDAR NAY of MIDDLE WAY 6 (Jorja, mgr.)
DM 56 ROCANIS (turn 578): LINKIN LOGGER of INCONSISTENT FURY (Banthius, mgr.)
DM 60 ARADI (turn 563): TICK ... TOCK of UNNAMEABLES (Howlin' Wolf, mgr.)
DM 61 JURINE (turn 545): GRAHAM CRACKER of SHEWISH BUFFET (One Armed Bandit, mgr.)
DM 65 DAL SHANG (turn 539): THE BLUE PILL of THE MOTHERSHIP CE (Floyd, mgr.)
DM 73 ERINIKA (turn 260): MRALISSA LOON of MIDDLE WAY 18 (Jorja, mgr.)
DM 74 DAYLA KIV (turn 500): MARISAN TEN MEDARIN of SAND DANCERS (Jorja, mgr.)
DM 75 JADE MOUNTAIN (turn 495): XAVIER of RUNEBLADES (Stillgard, mgr)
DM 78 LIN TIRIAN (turn 486): STEAMED MUSCLES of SHEWISH BUFFET (One Armed Bandit)
ADM 103 FREE BLADES (turn 603): NOREASTER of DIRT DEVILS (The Dark One, mgr.)
Top Teams
---------
DM 9 ZUKAL (turn 715): SERPENTS HOLD 3 (Khisanth, mgr.)
DM 12 RIZTAB (turn 717): SWEET MAGIC (Jorja, mgr.)
DM 13 DULLENS (turn 664): CARDOW HUNTERS (Jorja, mgr.)
DM 15 MALCORN (turn 711): GREENWARDENS (Jorja, mgr.)
DM 16 WILLAF (turn 713): SHADOWMONGERS (Shadow, mgr.)
DM 17 ALJAFIR (turn 704): MIDDLE WAY (Jorja, mgr.)
DM 19 ZUWAYZA (turn 705): LORDS INC. (Lord Z, mgr.)
DM 28 MORYA (turn 355): LORD OF DISCIPLINE (Longshot, mgr.)
DM 29 LAPUR (turn 702): CARDOW HUNTERS (Jorja, mgr.)
DM 31 CHIMLEVTAL (turn 352): BAD NEWS BEES (Stinger, mgr.)
DM 32 ARVAT (turn 699): DEVIL ADVOCATES (The Dark One, mgr.)
DM 33 NIATOLI ISLAND (turn 696): SUMMERTEETH (Howlin' Wolf, mgr.)
DM 35 MURSKA (turn 688): CHILDREN OF LLYR (Jorja, mgr.)
DM 43 VEASTIAN (turn 646): THE FAMILY (Jorja, mgr.)
DM 45 STORMCROWE (turn 330): DARQUE FORCES (Master Darque, mgr.)
DM 47 NORTH FORK (turn 324): OBG! (Howlin' Wolf, mgr.)
DM 50 SNOWBOUND (turn 311): LIFE IMAPACTS (Coach, mgr.)
DM 56 ROCANIS (turn 578): INCONSISTENT FURY (Banthius, mgr.)
DM 60 ARADI (turn 563): RED DOG GANG (Spot, mgr.)
DM 61 JURINE (turn 545): SHEWISH BUFFET (One Armed Bandit, mgr.)
DM 65 DAL SHANG (turn 539): SAND DANCERS (Jorja, mgr.)
DM 73 ERINIKA (turn 260): MIDDLE WAY 18 (Jorja, mgr.)_
DM 74 DAYLA KIV (turn 500): MEDAL OF HONOR (The Anarchist, mgr.)
DM 75 JADE MOUNTAIN (turn 495): SAND DANCERSS (Floyd, mgr.)
DM 78 LIN TIRIAN (turn 486): SHEWISH BUFFET (One Armed Bandit, mgr.)
ADM 103 FREE BLADES (turn 603): DIRT DEVILS et al (The Dark One, mgr.)
Recent Graduates
-----------------
DM 9 ZUKAL (turn 715): DEBARROWS of CRIMSON DEATH (Verol, mgr.)
(turn 714): MIDNIGHT of BATTEL BLADES (Madwand, mgr.)
DM 28 MORYA (turn 355): POSTAGE of EXPENSE ACCOUNT (Finance Manager, mgr.)
DM 29 LAPUR (turn 701): STEEL SHARPENER of METAL MINCERS (Oremaster, mgr.)
PLUTONIUM PUNCH of METAL MINCERS (Oremaster, mgr.)
DM 32 ARVAT (turn 698): PAM DEMONIUM of DEVIL ADVOCATES (The Dark One, mgr.)
DM 33 NIATOLI ISLAND (turn 696): JERK O'LANTERN of HALLOWEINERS (The Dark One, mgr)
DM 47 NORTH FORK (turn 324): LATKA of SECOND BANANAS (Mannequin, mgr.)
(turn 323): FROSTY of FAST FOOD (Madwand, mgr.)
DM 50 SNOWBOUND (turn 310): MATH of LIFE IMPACTS (Coach, mgr.)
DM 56 ROCANIS (turn 577): MOE FROSTTOOTH of INCONSISTENT FURY (Banthius, mgr.)
DM 61 JURINE (turn 545): ARKAN BARNES of MIDDLE WAY 16 (Jorja, mgr.)
SPY REPORT
So why do I have this bag over my head? Because I am The Unknown Spymaster and
I'm going to give you a spy report!. Hey everybody, watch out for ABRAM CROSS, who
flew up 14 points in the rankings after mashing OVERTHEWEIGHTLIMIT like a melon.
Keep your eye on this guy. And falling like a basher in the top ten was BENNY DOGGE,
who dropped 13 points after a disappointing (to say the least) bout with TIGERS. Our
battling duelmaster ACES has managed to hold the title, fending off VENEMOUS
CONCUBINE's none too subtle advances. Better luck next time, NOBLISH ISLAND. 4 out
of 5 gladiators surveyed protect the body, so try and avoid aiming at that location.
Let's dig a little deeper into what's happening in the NOBLISH ISLAND arena.
Did you hear that BASH BROS SUITCASE was most avoided team this week? Well, knowing
the personal hygiene of BASH BROS SUITCASE's warriors, I'm not surprised! For those
of you who like math, try this one: BASH BROS SUITCASE + Weapons That go Boom =
COLLEGE FOOTBALL + Avoid City. Well dang howdy, but if challenges were votes, BROKEN
WHEEL would be president. Although it may be a contest he doesn't want to win.
Being a spy is great--other people die and you spend the rest of the day
drinking to their memory. Better tanked than dead! It's not often when you see a
6-3-0 warrior like OVERTHEWEIGHTLIMIT kick the bucket. I wonder if BASH BROS
SUITCASE will recover from the blow. Here's some advice: warriors with little wit
and will may encounter problems on the trail to the Isle.
Well, there's the manager of the NOBLISH ISLAND giving me the 'cut' sign (or is
that 'They're going to strangle you in the alley?). Okay, so I may not be the
world's best comedian, but then you guys aren't the world's best warriors. And
remember, you can pick your friends and you can pick your--(loud boos), oh, you've
heard that one already!-- The Unknown Spymaster
DUELMASTER W L K POINTS TEAM NAME
ACES 9405 7 2 2 66 COLLEGE FOOTBALL (1618)
ADEPTS W L K POINTS TEAM NAME
GAMECOCKS 9401 6 3 0 55 COLLEGE FOOTBALL (1618)
BROKEN WHEEL 9410 7 2 0 52 BASH BROS SUITCASE (1619)
RIPPED OPEN 9415 4 4 0 41 BASH BROS SUITCASE (1619)
CHALLENGER INITIATES W L K POINTS TEAM NAME
TIGERS 9403 5 4 0 33 COLLEGE FOOTBALL (1618)
ABRAM CROSS 9420 3 3 1 33 LOW ROAD 5 (1620)
OVERFILLED 9411 6 3 0 31 BASH BROS SUITCASE (1619)
HOOSIERS 9404 5 4 0 28 COLLEGE FOOTBALL (1618)
JAYHAWKS 9402 6 3 0 27 COLLEGE FOOTBALL (1618)
INITIATES W L K POINTS TEAM NAME
DAISY FRYE 9417 2 4 0 21 LOW ROAD 5 (1620)
CHARLOTTE ELLIS 9418 3 3 0 16 LOW ROAD 5 (1620)
-DOMITIUS 9362 3 4 2 15 OLYMPUS MAXIMUS (1612)
BENNY DOGGE 9419 3 3 0 15 LOW ROAD 5 (1620)
ELMER GREEN 9416 3 3 0 15 LOW ROAD 5 (1620)
HOLES 9407 2 7 0 13 BASH BROS SUITCASE (1619)
-AURELIUS 9413 1 1 0 9 OLYMPUS MAXIMUS (1612)
-VITRUVIUS 9406 1 3 0 6 OLYMPUS MAXIMUS (1612)
-METALLUS 9364 1 3 0 6 OLYMPUS MAXIMUS (1612)
-HONORIA 9363 0 5 0 5 OLYMPUS MAXIMUS (1612)
'-' denotes a warrior who did not fight this turn.
THE DEAD W L K TEAM NAME SLAIN BY TURN Revenge?
VENEMOUS CONCUBI 0 0 0 ACES 9405 370 NONE
OVERTHEWEIGHTLIM 9408 6 3 0 BASH BROS SUITC 1619 ABRAM CROSS 9420 370
PERSONAL ADS
Mr. Assur -- Was that a 2-2 I saw? It is only appropriate. -- Coach Rah Rah
Holes -- It is getting easier and easier to bring home a holy victory. (wink) --
Hoosiers
Overfilled -- If you weren't, you might have won. Instead, I am Duelmaster. Seems
fitting for an Ace, doesn't it? -- Aces
Broken Wheel -- Perhaps the tiger in my tank was missing? -- Tigers
Or claustrophobic?
Ripped Open -- Indeed, I was. -- Jayhawks
What?! M. Chardinee?! I am soooooo bad. I lost to M. Chardinee? I am a mere
plucked chicken. -- Gamecocks
Come on, Olympus Maximus. Both Low Road and Bash Bros Suitcase are just waiting for
you to beat up on them. (wink) -- Coach Rah Rah
Domitius -- Train the indicated stat, that's a critical one for ou. Size does not
substitute for it. And if it were ME, I'd drop the shield and get off the mark
faster. Speed, speed, and speed. -- Benny Dogge
Overtheweightlimit -- And I didn't eat carbs for a WEEK before that trip, either.
Damn. -- Daisy Frye
Metallus -- Bad weapon choice. Maybe if you'd gone with something suited to your
style, maybe... a shortsword? Almost anyone can use that. Maybe you'd do better
then. -- Elmer Green
Vitruvius -- Jorja always says, "drop the offhand shield," but you WERE using it.
Maybe if you just generally lightened your load, and got off the mark faster, that
would help? -- Abram Cross
P.S. I don't know that it *would* help, neither does Jorja, but it MIGHT.
Honoria -- If you've got the will, train that stat. If not, different weapon. Maybe
a broadsword? And drop the off-hand; it isn't helping you at all. -- Charlotte Ellis
Daisy Frye - Victim of a knacky Hybrid TP - Assur
Coach Rah Rah -- 2-2 this last turn. I'll take it, especially given that I have a
'Hole' in my roster. -- Assur
Hoosiers -- Let me count the ways. 1) As you well know, bashers love the aimed blow
matchup in early and mid basic. Advantage you. 2) While I can't deny you are one
ugly basher, I am one ugly aimed blow (17-15-16-5-3-11-17). Advantage you. 3) You
get support from your manager, Coach Rah Rah. My manager laughs at me. -- Holes
Olympus Maximus -- If you have any questions or would like advice, feel free to post
personal ads with questions, send diplomatic note to Coach Rah Rah or myself, or
contact either of us online via the www.duel2.com private messages (we both monitor
our names (The Consortium (Coach Rah Rah) or Assurnasirbanipal). Good luck! -- Assur
And even if you don't want advice, you're likely to get it.
LAST WEEK'S FIGHTS
HOOSIERS was devastated by BROKEN WHEEL in a 1 minute mismatched Challenge fight.
JAYHAWKS won victory over CHARLOTTE ELLIS in a 2 minute Challenge battle.
TIGERS handily defeated BENNY DOGGE in a 1 minute one-sided Challenge match.
ACES slaughtered VENEMOUS CONCUBINE in a 1 minute mismatched Title brawl.
RIPPED OPEN was defeated by GAMECOCKS in a exciting 1 minute fight.
DAISY FRYE devastated HOLES in a 1 minute uneven brawl.
OVERTHEWEIGHTLIMIT was slain by ABRAM CROSS in a 4 minute brutal struggle.
OVERFILLED viciously subdued ELMER GREEN in a popular 2 minute gruesome competition.
BATTLE REPORT
MOST POPULAR RECORD DURING THE LAST 10 TURNS
|FIGHTING STYLE FIGHTS FIGHTING STYLE W - L - K PERCENT|
|BASHING ATTACK 4 PARRY-STRIKE 1 - 0 - 0 100 |
|STRIKING ATTACK 3 BASHING ATTACK 29 - 17 - 1 63 |
|SLASHING ATTACK 2 LUNGING ATTACK 8 - 5 - 0 62 |
|WALL OF STEEL 2 SLASHING ATTACK 12 - 8 - 2 60 |
|AIMED BLOW 2 STRIKING ATTACK 20 - 20 - 1 50 |
|LUNGING ATTACK 1 TOTAL PARRY 9 - 10 - 0 47 |
|TOTAL PARRY 1 WALL OF STEEL 9 - 10 - 1 47 |
|PARRY-LUNGE 0 AIMED BLOW 9 - 18 - 0 33 |
|PARRY-STRIKE 0 PARRY-RIPOSTE 0 - 0 - 0 0 |
|PARRY-RIPOSTE 0 PARRY-LUNGE 0 - 0 - 0 0 |
Turn 370 was great if you Not so great if you used The fighting styles of the
used the fighting styles: the fighting styles: top eleven warriors are:
SLASHING ATTACK 2 - 0 STRIKING ATTACK 1 - 2 3 BASHING ATTACK
WALL OF STEEL 2 - 0 PARRY-LUNGE 0 - 0 2 SLASHING ATTACK
AIMED BLOW 1 - 1 PARRY-STRIKE 0 - 0 2 STRIKING ATTACK
BASHING ATTACK 2 - 2 PARRY-RIPOSTE 0 - 0 2 WALL OF STEEL
LUNGING ATTACK 0 - 1 1 AIMED BLOW
TOTAL PARRY 0 - 1 1 LUNGING ATTACK
TOP WARRIOR OF EACH STYLE
FIGHTING STYLE WARRIOR W L K PNTS TEAM NAME
SLASHING ATTACK ACES 9405 7 2 2 66 COLLEGE FOOTBALL (1618)
AIMED BLOW GAMECOCKS 9401 6 3 0 55 COLLEGE FOOTBALL (1618)
BASHING ATTACK BROKEN WHEEL 9410 7 2 0 52 BASH BROS SUITCASE (1619)
Note: Warriors have a winning record and are an Adept or Above.
The overall popularity leader is DAISY FRYE 9417. The most popular warrior this turn
was OVERFILLED 9411. The ten other most popular fighters were ABRAM CROSS 9420,
GAMECOCKS 9401, BROKEN WHEEL 9410, JAYHAWKS 9402, TIGERS 9403, RIPPED OPEN 9415,
DAISY FRYE 9417, CHARLOTTE ELLIS 9418, ACES 9405, and OVERTHEWEIGHTLIMIT 9408.
The least popular fighter this week was HOLES 9407. The other ten least popular
fighters were BENNY DOGGE 9419, HOOSIERS 9404, ELMER GREEN 9416, OVERTHEWEIGHTLIMIT
9408, ACES 9405, CHARLOTTE ELLIS 9418, DAISY FRYE 9417, RIPPED OPEN 9415, TIGERS
9403, and JAYHAWKS 9402.
FAXING IN TURNS
If you fax in your Duelmasters turns, realize that most fax machines have a
border on the right and left side of the paper where no image is transmitted or
printed. When you put your strategy sheet in the fax machine, make sure you allow
extra room on the right side, especially if you are challenging that turn. When the
ID# of the warrior you are challenging is cut off, we are unable to enter the
challenges. There are four possible solutions to this problem:
1) Load the strategies farther to the left, so the Duelmasters dude is cut off,
rather than your challenges,
2) Write the ID# of the warrior you're challenging in the space for the name,
3) Load the strategies long-wise (but then you have to be careful about
overlapping the sheets, which can also cut off the ID#s), or
4) Face the fact that you won't get all of your challenges through.
We'd prefer solutions 1-3, but it's your choice.
Also, please be careful that your fax machine isn't transmitting too darkly or
lightly. If you write your turn in pencil, some fax machines will transmit the
pencil so lightly we can't read it when it gets here. If your fax machine can make
copies, it's a good idea to try making a copy first to make sure it's readable, adjust
the darkness if you need to, and then fax it to us. Be especially wary of the
Advanced Duelmasters Strategy Sheets, because if your fax machine sends the grey
shading too darkly, we won't be able to read those lines at all.
Good luck!
-- Green Eyes
STRENGTH AND WEAPON DAMAGE
by Pagan
Weapon damage is equated to Strength + damage class. Damage Class is
categorized by Size. So damage seems to be done like this:
1. Armor weight + 12 + any bonus it has vs weapon type is a negative to the
damage done.
2. Damage done is strength + damage class variable + weapon variable.
3. Slashing, Bashing, & Lunging increase the damage done.
4. When the damage done equals 1 or less then there is a weapon bounce
statement. The minimum damage a blow can do, if it does not bounce, is 1 point of
damage. The program knows there's a hit before it knows damage, so it can't reverse
a hit, you merely take one point of damage because the weapon bounced off the armor.
5. The lower your strength, the more bounces you will see. The lower your
damage class, the more bounces you will see. The lighter weight a weapon is vs the
armor it's hitting, the more bounces you will see.
6. In reverse to #5, all of those secondary-damage statements (often referred
to as extra-damage statements), such as "it was a devastating blow"... "what a
massive blow" -- these merely show that you hit your opponent with enough damage to
exceed the computer secondary-damage statement threshold. Your warrior caused enough
damage to exceed a programmed set number (whatever that number may be) and the fight
is only showing that you exceeded that number. The programmed number for the
secondary-damage threshold is a hard number: it is constant within the program and is
used for all fights and all warriors. It is not random, simply because it cannot be
random and keep any consistency with the Damage-Classes. It has nothing to do with
how much damage you did in relation to your opponent's hit-points, either. If you
exceed that hard number in damage, you get a printed statement showing that to be the
case. There is no such thing as Extra Damage.
Pagan
TEAM AND CHARACTER MAINTENANCE SERVICE
As a service to all managers, we offer team and character maintenance. This
option allows you to make sure your team or selected warriors will never miss a turn!
Team Maintenance: This will cause all warriors on that team to fight every
turn; if it's an AD arena, any new warriors who arrive on that team will
fight the turn they arrive. In A.D. or in transfer arenas where you have
multiple teams, each team will need to separately be on Team Maintenance.
(The only exception is new warriors; they will not fight until they have had
their initial strategy input.)
Character Maintenance: This will cause only that warrior to fight every
turn. If the character graduates or changes arenas, he/she/it will stay on
Character Maintenance.
In either case, you may submit strategy sheets for your warriors each turn, if
you wish. The Team/Character Maintenance will make sure your warriors fight each
turn, and they will always use their most recently entered strategy.
Remember that challenges, avoids, and challenge/if challenged strategies will not
carry through from turn to turn. These sections are only used on the turn they are
entered. In order to continually challenge or avoid you will need to submit a
strategy sheet each time.
One other thing to remember about maintenance: Maintenance is not something
that you write on your turnsheet (like in demo tourneys). In order to add or remove
maintenance for a team or warrior, you must send a note to Customer Service. If you
just write things like this on your strategy sheet, they may or may not get done.
Likewise, don't write it on your personal ads. Please, please, please put it on a
separate piece of paper with "Customer Service" written on the top. If you don't,
well, you can imagine.
Thanks for your time. Good luck in Duelmasters! -- Green Eyes
The Perfect Scout
We all know them. We all hate them. What am I talking about? Scum. But there
is nothing better than a scum to scout at your enemy's weak points. You can see if
they'll last long, what weapons they use, where they attack, their style, etc. And
you typically don't have to fear a loss. Picture this. You see a guy on the listing
10-5-2. Well, you don't want to send your best warrior with his perfect 5-0-1 because
you want to keep winning. So you send in your scout. Now you know if you can beat
him. The scout will enable you to better pick and choose your fights. Also if you
feel like getting back at someone these scum are great.
How to design:
ST13+ can go as low as 11
CN17+
WT5-7 no more
WL17+
SP3 as low as possible
DF7 is perfect
So a perfect set up would be 15-19-13-7-19-3-8 to start train CN till 21 then WL
21 WT 8 DX 9 then whatever you want. This guy is not for ADM he's just for regular DM
and to be used to scout. Don't worry about skills until you've 3 raises in everything
then go to skills. Oh yeah strategy.
1-1-1-1-1-1-1
1-1-1-1-1-1-1
1-1-1-1-1-1-1
HE---------HE
BD---------BD
Parry-------P
Get rid of him when they get up high. Then they've already scouted everything.
Brought to you by Mr. Drake DM#5, Mgr. of Pirates
THE BRAINY, LOW WILL STRIKER
Like many others, I have experimented with the striker style, though I waited
nearly two years into playing this game before doing so. Recently, while preparing
for a tournament, I was reviewing the many roll-up sheets I had ordered in hopes that
I might find a warrior or two who might have a good chance at a TV, or even a TC
prize. Most of the roll-ups were born losers, or mediocre warriors at best, so I
decided to experiment with the striker style.
Most managers will agree that in order for a warrior to have a long-term
potential (Primus), you need a will of at least 15. I wouldn't know, never having
gotten a warrior that far. However, not all roll-ups will give you the opportunity
for a 15+ WT/WL/DF combo. With that in mind, I made a few high WT, high DF, low WL
strikers and hoped for the best. I was relying on their superior decise to get in the
first blow, and hoping to finish off the opposition before they had a chance to swing
back. Before you mega-managers say it, yes these guys would have made good, albeit
extremely fragile aimed blows with the stats such as the following. I know, I had one
with similar stats TV at the same tournament with a 9-1-0 record. However, I am
writing about the low-will striker, not aimed blows.
The result:
11-12-10-19-9-6-17 & 9-12-12-19-7-4-21
These guys have absolutely no realistic long-term potential once past basic,
assuming they live that long (that single digit will is a killer). However, #1
managed to go 8-2-1 in the tournament, picking up an impressive 18 skill sin the
process. he also managed to take out all 4 TP scum he faced, going 9 minutes in one
fight, and 5 in another (his overview claimed "poor endurance"). #2 started with very
"little endurance," yet managed to last 8 minutes vs. a TP-ratings, and had no problem
sending those pesky TP-scum desperate before the end of the first minute.
Give your striker a scimitar and let him go out 10-10-7 decise. With the high-
decise style advantage strikers get, he should get in the first, and hopefully last,
blow. Slow him down to about 6-4-6 minute 2, then go 6-1-1 thereafter. He'll either
have won or lost by the end of the 3rd minute vs. most opponents. Have him come out
at 6-4-6 (min 1), 6-2-6 (min 2), and 6-1-6 (min 3+) vs. TP-scum. I aim for the legs
(I don't know of anybody who protects the legs, especially at tournaments), though if
you want to go for the kills, aim for the head.
Will these kind of rollups TV every time? NO! Their problem is a distinct
aversion to pain, one blow will usually do them in. It is, however, a far better way
of enjoying those frustrating low WL warriors than simply writing DA on the strategy
sheet.
If you are really gutsy, run these guys in the arena. They are a sure bet to be
killed before their 15th fight, but will probably have a winning record when they die.
Comments, derision and just about anything else welcome.
Diplo Blind Man, Red Branch (3)
AND NOW, FOR SOMETHING COMPLETELY DIFFERENT. . .
Are you tired of all the articles on the so-called Un-scum TPs and kill-at-will
strikers? While I always appreciate input from more experienced managers, it seems
some of the best styles are completely passed over when the articles come out in the
last couple pages of the newsletters. In this case, the lunger. In the first ten
fights of my arena, lungers held an average of 55% wins, and had a kill rate second to
strikers, tying with bashers (if killing is your goal). Experienced managers agree,
starting with offensive styles benefits newbies, because they tend to be a little
easier to run and more consistent at lower levels play.
In way of disclaimer, I'm by no means a mega-manager. I've been at this for a
little over two years, and don't have a record that you'd write home about. This is
because I do a lot of experimenting, DAing even a good fighter, just to try something
new. Though I haven't run a lot of lungers, I have learned that they tend to do best
with a fairly even spread of stats.
ST: Usually somewhere between 9-13, 13 is nice because it lets you use the long
spear (an obviously superior lunging weapon), but 9 or 11 can free up the points for
other stats, if need be.
CN: While everyone will tell you to never put points here, this is a style
which, like the TP, can benefit from decent constitution. Try not to go any lower
than 9, with something in the 13 range preferably. Given you can train this without
skill loss, a 10 works all right, though you're going to have to finish your foes in
the first minute.
SZ: 9 is all you need for any of the weapons, but it seems hard to get a good
damage rating with anything under a 12.
WT: I've gotten some good bases with as low as a 12, and a 17 didn't seem to
improve them appreciably. 15's seem to do pretty fair. Granted, given the quickness
of their fights--if they're run right--they may take a little while to develop.
WL: As with con, you're going to need that drive and endurance. A 12 con, 12
will gives normal endurance, and even will as high as 17 doesn't seem to give them all
that much more stamina, so again, I'd say in the range of 15.
SP: I'm an advocate of the low speed school, overall, and I've had them as low
as a 7 with some decent response, but an 11+ is better, and they make use of speed
better than most, given wit and deftness to use it.
DF: Again, 11+, I've heard that lungers favor the legs as a target, so you need
to be able to hit a reasonably small, mobile target.
The really nice thing about lungers is their spread of skill bases. I've had
four decent lungers, who ran in the .500 range, and probably could have done a lot
better if I'd pegged their rhythm. My best overall spread of skills came from a 13-
10-9-15-15-11-11, with 50% in initiative and attack, 30% parry, 35% defense and 20%
riposte. I've had them go as high as 60% in riposte (9-15-8-15-13-11-13), but with no
parry, it was sort of useless.
As one of the highest endurance burns in the game, obviously, the strategy is the
key, and the one place I must admit lacking. I know the armor can make a big
difference for them, so you want to go as low as possible, naked if you think you can
get away with it. Like a striker, you really don't want to get hit at all. I usually
run them hi-hi-mod (with exception of some of my defensives, I always run a 5-8 KD).
Unlike strikers and bashers, they don't seem to respond as well to the hi-lo-hi in the
later part of the fight. The weapons for a lunger are pretty obvious; epee,
longsword, short spear, or long spear. If you build one with less strength and con,
you can boost the speed and deftness enough to make the epee standards, but given my
experience with their damage ratings, I'd advise against it. As I noted in the
beginning, an even spread seems to work well, and one of my first ever was 13-12-12-
12-12-12-11, with 65% ini, 35% att, 15% rip, 15% def. No godling, by any means, but
could do some wicked things with that longspear, and very nearly won his DA match.
Again, I make no claims as being a great manager, only one with a lot of time on
his hands, and one who saw a notable lack of info on what I consider to be one of the
best potential styles in the game. Their flashy style can lead to great gains in the
popularity and recognition, and their well spread skills can probably lead to great
things in development. I would greatly welcome any form of questions, comments or
complaints, and particularly other managers experience with this--or for that matter
any other--style. Good fighting.
Elder Snorri
The Aesir (22)
Miroi Chang (DM 79)
WARRIOR HANDEDNESS
by Pagan
There has always been something FISHY about ambidextrous warriors and what hand
they hold their weapons in. If you ask anyone but me, most will tell you the same
old line about Ambi's holding their weapons in their left & sometimes in their right.
WRONG.... The computer program does something weird here, and I will explain in the
program format:
FIGHTER1 is right-handed
primary hand = WEAPONA
FIGHTER2 is ambidextrous
primary hand = Epee
off-hand = Dagger
back-up = Epee
1. FIGHTER1 swings WEAPONA
2. various computations for attack, parry, defense...
3. FIGHTER1 hits/misses (let's say he hits)
4. computations for attack area/protect area (hit or parry or save)
5. selection of attack area or impossible parry save or random area
6. FIGHTER2 is struck on LEFT ARM
7. selection on warrior file for handedness then correlate with weapon carried;
RE_ROUTE --> If ambidextrous select handedness
8. check for fail at hit-points level vs. damage done
9. FIGHTER2 drops his Epee
{at this point you'll never notice much difference. You may even think that the
computer at this time, or at the beginning of the fight, designates the weapon side
an ambi warrior is carrying. But you'd be wrong.)
10. check for initiative, if yes then check for back-up
11. if no on initiative then continue (current offensive warrior continues
offensive), if yes then offensive is broken RE_ROUTE to advantage computations
12. FIGHTER2 spins and pulls out his Epee
{so FIGHTER2 should have his Epee is which hand?...his left}
13. advantage computations judge who takes offensive
14. FIGHTER1 swings WEAPONA with devastating force!
{now this will look familiar because it always the same system, the program doesn't
change, just the numbers do}
15. various computations for attack, parry, defense...
16. FIGHTER1 hits/misses (let's say he hits)
17. computations for attack area/protect area (hit or parry or save)
18. selection of attack area or impossible parry save or random area
19. FIGHTER2 is struck on LEFT ARM
20. selection on warrior file for handedness then correlate with weapon carried;
RE_ROUTE --> If ambidextrous select handedness
21. check for fail at hit-points level vs. damage done
22. FIGHTER2 drops his DAGGER
{wasn't that Dagger in his right hand?...guess not.}
...and so on, and so forth.... You'll notice that the program never chooses a
weapon side until necessary. This has a few ramifications: hit points in specific
areas, selective attacking based on warrior body positioning, and a few other things.
This is true because I have PROOF. Eventually you will get fights that this
will happen to. BUT IT AIN'T EASY. It was just luck that I got the hardcopy to show
it to me. You may notice that your ambi warriors, if they drop their weapons (and
every warrior eventually does), that eventually you will have two different fights
where your guy got hit in the same arm and dropped two different weapons. It wasn't
until I got lucky and it happened to me twice in one fight (yes I lost the fight!)
getting hit in one arm and dropping two different weapons.
You should begin to see some format here. The program breakdown is basic, but
is a close enough approximation for you to get a better feel about what's happening.
-- Pagan
A BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO DUELMASTERS
or
HOW TO KEEP YOUR HEAD ABOVE WATER
Way back when I first started Duelmasters, I was helped immeasurably by an
article written by an experienced manager whose name escapes me now. I regret that
now, because that article is largely responsible for my current success in
Duelmasters. At least, it kept me interested and competitive until I knew enough to
develop my own strategies and styles. What I would like to accomplish with this
article is to give enough advice on the various styles that a beginner can put
together a decent fighter. I feel for those managers struggling with a 20 or 30
percent winning record. I was once one of you (in Cliffhome). With that in mind, I
will briefly discuss each fighting style and my recommendations. So here goes:
AIMED BLOW: I've never designed one, so if you're set on having one, I'm not going
to be much help to you. A setup for a good AB will produce a GREAT PR. But if you
still want one, try something like this: 11-9-9-17-15-6-17. You need wit and deftness
and the 11 strength will give you a longsword or quarterstaff. Great against TP.
BASHER: A pretty good style for the beginner, and easy to produce. Bashers come in a
variety of shapes and sizes, from the small, fast type to the dreaded "scum basher."
You need ST of 13 for a WH. It's the best basher weapon. The more speed he has, the
less constitution he needs. ST & SZ should equal about 25. Example: 15-7-10-17-13-
11-11 or 15-17-10-13-17-5-7.
LUNGER: Good choice for the beginner. Many people make lungers too small. At least
SZ 9 so he can use a LS vs. heavy armor. Try high WL and SP and if you have the
deftness, try a LO. Don't worry too much about CN. Run 10-10-10 to start. Use only
one weapon. Ex: 13-5-12-15-15-17-7.
PARRY-LUNGE: My favorite style. Try 11-10-12-16-16-6-13, increase WT & WL to 17.
Run 3-3-3 first minute, then more offense and activity after that. Be patient with
the parry types. It takes time to develop their skills, but once you do, they are the
best and most entertaining designs. Use LO/DA and light armor.
PARRY-STRIKE: Set up similar to PL, but may have more ST for heavier weapons. Could
also use more CN. He can use a variety of weapons well. Ex: 13-13-9-16-15-5-13.
PARRY-RIPOSTE: Arguably the best style once fully developed. WT and DF should be 17
with one or two stat raises. ST of 9 okay, but 11 better (it give you LO against
heavier armor). Size should be small, although I was once successful with a size 14
PR. PR needs a fair amount of CN. Ex: 9-15-5-17-15-6-17.
SLASHER: I haven't been too successful with these, but some people have been. They
need to be able to take a few hits, so keep CN around 10. ST of 13 gives you a GA
against heavy armor. Keep size down. Ex: 13-10-6-16-11-11-14.
STRIKER: There are two basic styles of striker: High speed and deftness and enough
strength to handle weapons of choice, and large strikers with low SP and DF.
Regardless, keep the WT high and CN low. They are naturally decisive, so take
advantage of that. Use only one weapon at a time. Ex: 13-5-13-17-15-15-9 or 13-7-
17-15-17-7-7.
TOTAL PARRY: Some TPs are carelessly made, figuring that it isn't really a skillful
type, but those fighters don't last long and they're boring! A good design for a TP
is 13-13-8-17-15-5-13. This would also make a very good PS or PL! Run 3-3-3 P for a
couple of minutes, then 4-3-4 or 5-3-5 for a minute or two. A good choice of weapons
is SH/ME; ACM/H. You can get by with less WT or ST and he can be larger, but keep CN,
WL, and DF fairly high. You will be insulted, because some styles just can't last for
more than a minute or two. But this is your real strength.
WALL OF STEEL: A good style. ST & CN & WL should equal 45 or so. I like at least
size 9 so he can use a QS. SP isn't really important. Run defensively for a minute
or two, then offensively after that. Ex: 15-12-9-13-17-5-13.
GENERAL NOTE: Often, the specific stat levels will depend more upon your weapon
choice than it will your fighter's style. If you want to use a great axe, you will
need a ST of 13 and DF of 11. Lungers using SS or LS need ST of 11. LO needs WT and
DF. A WH needs ST of 13 but only a DF of 7. Some weapons require a size 9 fighter.
So, when designing your fighter, think about the weapon you want him to use before you
finalize your selections. Also, remember that you can raise each stat (except size)
two points without too much trouble (unless your WL is very low) while you're fighting
in the arena. Be patient with your fighter and develop him gradually. Few great
fighters start out that way! Good luck in the arena!
Fritz of Battle Pets (225)
Solven -- 22
ENDURANCE
by Tankesh/Adie (DM11, Aruak City)
DETERMINATION
This attribute of a warrior found on the overview determines how long a warrior
can keep up their offense, defense, or just keep standing. All styles use the same
physical stats and the computer determines their endurance the same way, using those
stats as a base. But the actual endurance of a warrior can vary up or down from that
base depending on luck (good or bad). Like skills, each warrior can be gifted, mode,
or hosed in their starting endurance, and that giftedness or penalty seems to stick
with them permanently. Possible endurance levels, from lowest to highest are: very
little, poor, normal (no comment), good, great, tremendous, awesome.
Endurance can also be raised, in order of importance, with WL, ST and CN trains.
After training endurance to a warrior's first new level, I find it usually takes about
6 total trains, on average, to get to the next level of endurance. If a warrior is
gifted, as training continues, that higher level of endurance appears to stick with
them. It would be difficult to list numerous data points here to give you a better
feel for what endurance to expect in your new warrior, but if you want more data, try
this web site and look at the chart:
http://www.bit-net.com/~johnh/calc.cgi?end
ENDURANCE BURN
How fast endurance is used depends on the style of a warrior, their activity
level, their offensive effort, and armor/weapons carried.
1) Burn rate by style -- This is tricky to tell as nobody runs all styles with
the same strategy and armor regularly. But here is an approximate rate of burn by
style from highest to lowest, in my humble opinion:
LU - WS - SL - BA - PL - ST - PS - AB - PS - TP
Personally, I find the last five extremely difficult to separate, but usually the
more active styles burn faster due to faster strategies and more offensive skills, so
I tried to put them in order of the most active, typically. There are numerous
exceptions of course.
2) Activity Level -- Warriors running at higher levels of activity burn endurance
faster no matter their style, period. It may be that running on a warrior's favorite
rhythms allows said warrior to continue at that level longer than otherwise. When a
warrior gets tired, a strategy with a higher activity level will inhibit them from
recovering their endurance as they will try to keep moving.
3) Offensive Effort -- The more a warrior swings, the more tired they get. Of
course, if your OE is high, but the other guy is doing all the swinging because they
have the initiative, you aren't burning as much endurance. Endurance recovery is also
inhibited if offensive effort is kept up when a warrior is tired.
4) Weapons/Armor Carried -- The more one carries, the faster a warrior gets tired
carrying it. Easy.
EXHAUSTION
Warriors who are exhausted or tired will see lines in the fight reading, 'no
longer has the endurance to put up much of a defense', or 'staggers with exhaustion'.
You will see the former line if your warrior is exhausted and is attacked. Such
warriors are easier to hit and have a difficult time using their defense and parry,
which are penalized or even non-existent while they rest and try to recover their
endurance.
ENDURANCE RECOVERY
Over the course of a fight, warriors who become tired will often 'fade back,
snatching a much needed moment of rest' or some other similar action. This is
basically a breather for the warrior to try and recover some endurance so they can
keep fighting. Kind of like a climber pausing briefly to catch his breath and recoup.
If the warrior is not defeated while recovering, they will continue eventually, or try
to. For high burn styles, the very thought of continuing often makes them fade back
again and they may stand around for a while if not hacked down. They may also leap
about continuously, holding onto the initiative, but lack the endurance to actually
swing! Very low activity and offensive effort allows easier recovery than even
moderate strategies by telling your warrior to effectively give up the initiative and
chill. Of course, you run the risk of getting attacked while standing there. Low
burn styles can actually, if running slow enough (i.e., never attacking!), stand
around and recover their endurance almost as fast as they lose it, making REALLY long
fights possible between two such warriors.
WILL CHECKS
Lastly, related to endurance, are "Will Checks". When a warrior is exhausted,
this check is performed by the program to decide if the warrior wants to go on for
just a bit longer, to hang in there. It occurs often in longer fights, especially
with the Total Parry style, which often wins by exhausting their opponents. A failed
will check results in the warrior collapsing from exhaustion. A successful check
allows an exhausted warrior to continue and try to recover more endurance.
Additionally, will checks determine whether a warrior surrenders, usually due to being
wounded. A will check is determined by just that, WILL. If your warrior has a low
will, they will surrender or collapse more often than those with a high will.
Lastly, kill desire affects will checks. A low kill desire will make it more
likely that a warrior will fail his will check and surrender, therefore live. A
higher kill desire makes the warrior more willing to gut it out and fight to the end,
helping his will checks succeed. This may cause warriors to get killed more easily,
unless they win. This kind of death is due to a warrior who refuses to surrender,
giving their opponent more chances to try and kill them, or due to increased trauma
from more hits to a specific body location that can result in an infirmary death.
An Unbiased Look at the Slashing Attack
Really.
Slashers are coming out big this season, and as it's a style that I think
requires a lot of study, I'd like to share my learnings and observations with those of
you interested in this excellent offensive style.
Too often I've heard experienced managers shrug off the slasher out of hand--why?
Because they've never succeeded with the style themselves, and as such, hardly
consider it worth noting. However, it's a style that's sneaking a lot into the
limelight these days.
General design:
ST: 11-17--I would go as low as 7 or 9 depending on the warrior's size; I do
like at least a 9 for use of the scimitar. It's nice to get them to at least normal
damage, good, or better, because if they can't inflict any damage, they're going to be
in trouble.
CN: any--I like to give them some CN just so they can take a hit or two, but
it's not necessary. I have a couple of slashers who started with a 4 CN and made it
to AD; bear in mind, however, that a slasher with a good design is as mortal as an
aimed blow, and you can expect to lose them just as you've become attached to them.
SZ: 5-11--NO BIGGER. I don't know why, but big slashers just don't seem to make
it. However, I am flexible here, and I'm currently attempting an experiment with
gigantic slashers. If it works, I'll update this. As of right now, I'll stick with
the smaller ones. Another good reason to have a good strength.
WT: 17-21--As with any style, the higher the better. I've had some success with
WTs in the 13-17 range, and even 11, but I don't expect him to ever be Primus level.
If you can get 17 or 21, then do so.
WL: 11-21--Again, as with WT. A slasher with a good endurance will shock the
hell out of a scum TP who goes out sure that a slasher is easily scummed--not so. 17
is a good number; if possible, go with it.
SP: 5-9--If someone tells you that a slasher needs speed, DO NOT LISTEN to them.
It's hooey. A slasher already gets a speed and init bonus, they don't need any more
help, and in the long run it will greatly hinder them. A high-speed slasher will end
up Init-heavy with absolutely no other skills (and it's really frustrating to have a
fast little slasher who already has a Master Init and still isn't learning any other
skills)--there's nothing to 'em. You want him well-rounded, then you keep that SP
low; that's the major drawback to the slasher (or any pure offense style), and I
believe it's the main thing that's kept them from being more greatly respected.
DF: 13-21--Here's where you make or break 'em. A good deftness makes up for the
decise that might be lost in a low speed, and decise is more important than init. Any
good aimed blow will also be an excellent slasher (and, to avoid the inevitable snorts
of derision, yes, they'd be a better anything else. But I'm talking about slashers).
A good, generally perfect slasher looks so: 7-9-5-21-18-11-13 (it's not
ABSOLUTELY perfect, mind you; if I was designing him today I'd probably have gone with
a 17 WL and 8 ST). These are the stats of what is perhaps my best all around slasher,
skill-wise. This rollup started with these bases:
INIT: 90%
RIP: 60%
ATT: 70%
PAR: 15%
DEF: 65%
DEC: 55%
As you can see, this slasher got lucky--more, perhaps, than some would,
especially in the defense area. Some slashers will be frustratingly low in defense.
Despite this skill base, he also started doing LITTLE damage--with this kind of
problem, I definitely advocate raising ST to get rid of it. It WILL hurt his record,
and, with my newest Stat/Skill chart, I see that raising from 7 to 10 hasn't hurt this
slasher's learning at all, and now he does GOOD damage.
Of course, not all of my slashers have been this good skill wise. Often they do
start with desperately frustratingly low parry/defense skills, therefore needing
nothing more than to get that first hit. Many slashers, especially the high ST/WT/DF
combo ones, need to get the first hit--'cause if they get hit first, it's all over.
One of my favorite designs looks like this: 13-13-6-17-15-7-13. This slasher has
been desperately unlucky in skills, favorites, and definitely so record-wise. I can
also attribute my lackadaisical managerial style to his lack of success, because I
believe the numbers to be good.
Be that as it may, the slasher I've had the best success with looked like this:
10-14-9-18-16-8-9. He started with a negative 10% parry, and only a 20% defense. For
those wishing to snigger at me, this is Billy the Kid. He doesn't look like this now,
of course; he has a 47-29-2 record with several stat raises and three Advanced
Masters. So it's up in the air, for me, as to whether a really awesome design or just
dumb luck is what attributes to one's managerial success.
But that's neither here nor there. Once you HAVE your design, you want to know
how to run them. I've heard some say that weapons selection is limited with slashers.
Sure. Limited to the BEST WEAPONS IN THE GAME. A slasher can use hatchets (don't
laugh! My slashers can do devastating things with hatchets), scimitar, broadsword,
battle axe, longsword, epee, or shortsword. The scimitar is the weapon I advocate as
the best all around, but always try others. Every slasher has their own ideas and
some are pretty picky about it. I don't recommend using the epee in regular DM even
if you have the stats for it, unless you use it only against armor classes 0-4 or so.
Armor: I dress them heavy, but mostly because I like them to LIVE. A slasher is
generally so quick that even as heavy as scalemail won't slow them down once they have
that expert Decise (and often before). But in order to please those who think
excessive armor is scummy, you can drop them down to ALE/L. Go without armor only if
you're sure you can get the first swing and drop your opponent with that first hit or
it's a super scum who WON'T hit you. Otherwise, if you want to live, I recommend some
armor. But each manager can use this advice as they will.
Strategies: Early on, I run them fairly hard, 10-10-6 in minute one, dropping to
8-4-6 in minute two, and then to 6-1-5(6) thereafter. Some slashers are a little
strange in that they don't mind an "inverted strategy," that is, a higher defensive
effort (activity level) than offensive, i.e.: 8-10 or 6-8. The 6-1-6 usually means
that they can last a good long time against parry styles, and usually come out on top.
The styles to watch out for are high-kill, high-decise strikers and killer lungers.
Most slashers can and will get the jump on lungers, but the strikers are tougher; both
CAN be beaten. With a little clever fiddling, the good slasher can beat ALL styles.
But watch out for him while he's still young.
Tactics: Not necessary. The slash is nice, if they like it, but it CAN slow
them down. Decise is better if you want to be first off the mark or they appear
hesitant in the first minute, but only in minute one OR desperation (but not both).
Use response against strikers using decise.
Important Note: It is absolutely NOT TRUE that your OE and KD have to be the
same number in order for a defensive to be effective. I don't buy it. A 10 OE and a
7 KD will get you the results you want, and with the correct strategy, you can be as
much a killer, or not, as you desire without going berserk at a 10 KD. Trust me on
this one! :)
And that's about it. If you have any comments, criticisms, complaints, new
ideas, different ideas, etc., you can contact me via:
Tex's Rangers (20, 51, 105, 104)
Texas Independence Co (57, 105)
-- Tex
PRIORITY SKILL LEARNING -- by Pagan
There are specific facts you should know about skills. To begin with, there are
six skill areas. Three are offensive (attack, initiative, decisiveness) and three are
defensive (parry, riposte, defense); they define, together with your stats, the
abilities of your warrior in these areas. You should already know the implications
that skills have upon your warrior's roll-up, but now I want to talk about how
learning additional skills relates to your warrior's potential.
Each warrior has a favorite skill learn, that is to say, a warrior will learn a
particular skill more often than any others. Generally speaking, the skills a warrior
learns most often are heavily influenced by his fighting style, which is called
Priority. I will talk about priority a little later, but in general, it is the
likelihood that a style is to learn a skill category. For example, Total Parries
learn parry and defense more often than they learn decise or initiative.
Your warrior's favorite learn affects the priority of his skill learning. A
favorite learn is only limited by the six possible learns allowable, so you may have a
Total Parry with a favorite learn of initiative or a Slasher with a favorite learn of
defense. In any event, by your twentieth learn you should have an idea as to what his
favorite learn is, because of the disproportionate amount of skills learned within one
category. Also, when your fighter is invited to join the ADM arenas, you will be told
what skill learn your warrior favors.
A new area that I have been examining in the context of skill learning is the
impact an opponent's style has on the type of skills learned. Your warrior's fighting
style, along with the fighting style of his opponent, has a direct effect on the type
of skills learned, but does not control the number of skills learned. When he fights
a Total Parry, for instance, he is more likely to learn a defensive skill than when he
fights a Slasher.
PRIORITY
Chart developed by Ben Hitz -- "PUG"
Revised by -- DMobster and Pagan
The probability of learning a skill is modified by the style. Each style has a
learning scope that differs from each other style. There are Priority skill areas for
each style that differ amongst each style. Each skill is given a corresponding number
from 1 to 6 depending upon its priority.
PRIORITY SKILLS BY STYLE
AB -- ATT, RIP, DEF, PAR, DEC, INI
BA -- ATT, INI, DEC, PAR, RIP, DEF
LU -- INI, DEF, RIP, ATT, DEC, PAR
PL -- INI, PAR, ATT, DEF, DEC, RIP
PS -- PAR, DEC, INI, ATT, DEF, RIP
PR -- RIP, PAR, ATT, DEF, INI, DEC
ST -- DEC, ATT, INI, RIP, PAR, DEF
SL -- INI, ATT, RIP, DEC, PAR, DEF
WS -- ATT, INI, PAR, DEF, DEC, RIP
TP -- PAR, DEF, RIP, ATT, DEC, INI
Aimed Blows learn attack the most and initiative the least out of any of the
skills. By adding your warrior's Priority skills along with that of your opponent's
Priority skills, you can come to see the probability your warrior has to learn a
particular skill.
The above list for Priority may not be free from error; however, I believe it to
be an accurate reflection of what the actual priority skills are across the styles.
Some of the skill areas were so close in number that estimations had to be made about
which skill was higher in priority to another.
TRAINING SKILLS AND STATS
What happens in a fight with priority skills? Take a look at a Parry Lunge who fights
a Slasher.
Skills Slasher Parry Lunge Total Number of trials
INI 6 6 12
RIP 4 1 5
ATT 5 4 9
PAR 2 5 7
DEF 1 3 4
DEC 3 2 5
Total 21 21 42
Now, here we have the total pool of skills in fights between a Slasher and a
Parry Lunge. In this fight (Parry Lunge vs Slasher), it is more likely for a warrior
to learn, in this order: INI, ATT, PAR, RIP & DEC, DEF. By calculating the variables
we can see the likelihood for either warrior to learn each corresponding skill. To
learn initiative, there are 12 possible skills in a pool of 42. So 12 divided by 42 =
28.57% chance to learn an initiative skill. There are only 4 defensive skills in the
pool, so 4/42 = 9.52% chance to learn a defensive skill. By looking at the numbers
you can see that, in this fight, both warriors are more likely to learn initiative
skills than defensive skills. Also, by calculating all of the skills your opponents
learn, you will learn the most common skill your warrior teaches. This is the same
process as finding your favorite learn.
The likelihood your warrior has to learn a skill is a factor of Wit. Where
Priority shows you the pool of skills, your Wit determines whether your warrior learns
the skills or not. For an example of how this may work--and understand this is only
theory--the computer seems to keep pulling out skills out of a pool of the two
combatants' Priority skills. It then checks your warrior's Wit against a variable to
see if this skill can be learned or not. If it cannot be learned, the computer throws
away the skill and pulls out another. (Remember that the total pool size then
decreases, from 42 to 41, so you must then divide accordingly). The computer rolls a
random number, affected by a warrior's Wit, to determine the number of skills that
will be learned up to a maximum of six, and a minimum of zero. (There will be no
taking away of a warrior's skills!) The computer then continues to pull out skills
out of the priority pool until:
1. You fail to learn a skill
2. You reach your maximum allowable number of skills (0 to 6)
3. The pool of skills is exhausted.
How then is Priority affected by a warrior's favorite learn? You need to add 6
points of Priority to your warrior's favorite skill learn. This favorite affects only
your warrior's pooled Priority skills, and does not affect your opponent's pooled
Priority skills. Vice versa, your warrior's pooled Priority skills are not affected
by your opponent's favorite learn. You can use Priority to find your warrior's
favorite skill learn, once your warrior has learned 20-30 total skills. Without
calculating a favorite, your warrior should learn his base percentage chances with
Priority:
Priority Number Percent Chance for Priority
6 28.57%
5 23.81%
4 19.10%
3 14.29%
2 9.52%
1 4.76%
You are adding 6 points of Priority to your favorite skill learn, so after you
warrior has approximately 20 to 30 total skills, divide the number 6 (the favorite
Priority) by 27 (the Priority pool +21 & the favorite +6) and this equals = 22.22%.
So any skill area that is approximately 22.22% higher in skill learning than it should
be (as listed in the chart above) is your warrior's favorite learn.
-- Pagan
PARRY-RIPOSTE
--the how to and why--
Greetings, fellow managers. This article will deal with the design and
successful running of the parry riposte, henceforth referred to as ripper. A well
designed ripper will have both enough offense to satisfy those lunger maniacs, and
defense to make the most parry-XYZ fanatic happy. The most gratifying quality of the
ripper is, of course, his legendary riposte ability. The trick? Finding out how to
make him do just that. It requires a well-balanced mix of good design, diligent
studying of his fights, and a sound strategy. Let's do this step by step:
DESIGN
ST: 7-11
CN: 9 or less
SZ: 7-9
WT: 15-21
WL: 13-17
SP: 5-13
DF: 17-21
EXPLANATION:
ST: I like to have an 11 ST for using the longsword, a ripper's best weapon vs.
the heavy armor. When designing one, unless the strength was 6 or less, I probably
wouldn't add. Why? He needs points elsewhere more importantly.
CN: Never add points. It's a waste and gets you no skills, which are a highly
valuable commodity you need.
SZ: Smaller IS better. Why? Again, you need those almighty points elsewhere
and who cares if you don't have the initiative? You'll steal it with your riposte!
WT: Honestly, I'd like to never start below 17, but the Rollup Gods make that
quite hard at times. Therefore I settle for a rock bottom 15, allowing you to use the
epee and still learn at a respectable pace.
WL: I've run with a 13 will and experienced no ill effects. As a rule, though,
if you have extra points and just can't figure out what to do with them... slap them
on will. Will is important when considering your warrior's long term potential and
the ability to raise attributes once skills are maxed out through learning.
SP: This and deftness are the two main ingredients for riposte. Nevertheless, I
place the importance of speed right above con. It really isn't necessary and quite
frankly, I'd never add points to it because you won't have any left once maxing out
wit, deftness, and will.
DF: I place this as the second most important attribute for a ripper. You need
to be able to hit where you aim and make your shots count. When you come up against
that dreaded TP wearing APA/F & ME/ME, 100 hit points-plus, scumming for all he's
worth, you have to be able to hit those low hit point areas to win that fight. The
arms are my favorite attack location. I've run up against one of these things and by
minute 7 he dropped his ME, went desperate and gave up. If you get a design that
makes you say, "Wow, this could be a good aimed blow," chances are he'd make one
helluva ripper.
ARMOR:
Since the mortality rate of young rippers is alarmingly high, I recommend that
you never go below ARM/H until that rating in defense and parry come your way. Once
that happens, and you'll already be on your way to Advanced Expert riposte by this
time, if not higher, go ahead and put him in ALE, if you want. Always keep that helm,
though! Never forget that your beginning ripper is going to take some hits, and since
we hate to waste points on con, we depend on the armor to protect us until our
defenses come on line.
WEAPONS:
I've had good luck with the LO/DA combo. The EP/HA works well, also. As always,
though, find his FAVORITE! Others like going with the small shield as the off-hand
parrying weapon, but since I've never tried that I can't comment on it. Experiment,
that's the only way to find out.
EXAMPLES:
1) 13-9-7-15-13-8-19
2) 9-13-8-19-15-5-15
3) 9-7-7-21-13-6-21
1) This is actually a warrior. He is running at 75% and doing quite well. In
half his fights he has drawn first blood. Not only having the initiative, but by
parrying the blow and counter-striking.
2) This was a ripper also, until ripper #1 killed him. Lots of potential.
3) This would be my "perfect" ripper.
The Reader's Digest version of design is this: Wit, deftness, and will, in that
order. Remember, when designing a warrior, take into consideration the breakpoints
and place your points accordingly.
STRATEGY:
This is a general strategy that has worked wonderfully for me. No two rippers
are likely to be the same so this is just a good framework to start with. A highly
important detail is to thoroughly read your fights and find out what activity level he
likes to riposte at. I have also found that the old standby kill desire of 2 more
often than not made him pass up attack, via riposte, opportunities left and right. By
having it at 5, he increased his counterstrikes considerably.
3 3 6 6 6 5 3
4 4 4 4 4 3 5
5 5 5 5 5 5 2
LA -------------------------- >
BD -------------------------- >
N --------------------------- >
P P N N N N P
You will notice that when he goes "offensive" in minute three, I don't force
anything with a tactic modification. I've found them to hinder a ripper more than
help. Some may laugh at this minute three offensive strategy, but he HAS killed in
minute three. Against defensive styled warriors, he looked like an offensive lunatic.
Against offensive warriors, he ripostes 2-3 times per attack thrown at him.
FINAL NOTES:
Always remember that a ripper will make a corresponding amount of attacks using
lower numbers as an offensive warrior going ballistic with high numbers. Don't push
your ripper, but slowly move his numbers up and down and find out where HE likes to
run. Your warrior overview can give you a clue to this. Don't worry about him making
a lot of wild attacks at first, as this is normal for rippers. They get robbed on
their attack percentage due to their style, but it will come around in time.
In closing, if this article can help just one person struggling with the ripping
style, I'll be happy. I also encourage feedback, whether it be in agreement or
constructive criticizing. I base my conclusions from talking to other managers and my
own experience, which has been best with rippers. Good luck to all in the battle
and....
May the Almighty One guide your blade.
Blackhawk, mgr. Knight Rangers (arena 22)
and Knight Rangers (arena 20)
A service of the
BROTHERHOOD OF JUSTICE
------+------
B O J
^ I ^
/___\ I /___\
I
/ \
There is a Tavern in the Town...
Finally, after a great deal of research, study, gathering of information, wasting
time, not to mention hundreds of delicious meals later, I have finally complied enough
for the first article on Alastari's fine taverns, inns, and other such establishments.
For the sake of convenience, I started in the northlands, and the Island of the
Whistling Dragon, where sits the fine city of Aradi. Aradi simply has too many night
spots to do them all justice, but certainly the two greatest are Drake's Lodge and the
Blind Cyclops Inn. Both have an excellent setting, offer entertainment, lodging, and
a fine menu. Drake's menu has a wide selection not only from the northern Andorian
traditions, but also many more exotic dishes culled from the eastern seaboard,
Malcorn, and the Karnhorn Empire. The Blind Cyclops leans more heavily towards the
west coast cuisine, and some of the spicy dishes from the Aruaki Clanhold can be found
here. The seafood at both locations, and generally across town, is excellent.
Running down the coast into the Aruaki Clanhold itself, the first stop would
normally be Amen-Tei; however, I jumped over it into the heart of Andoria, first.
Along the populous Catseye River you'll find the cities of Seam, Aruak and Solven. In
Seam, one of the finest places to eat is the Stoned Golem. The prices are reasonable
and the cooking excellent. I recommend the dragon steak highly; fiery seasoning and
the richest Kati-Tei wine to wash it down with. Also in Seam you'll find the Frozen
Arms Inn--a perfect location to go if you particularly enjoy indoor ice skating (on
the floor). The temperature is kept at a constant 25 degrees Fahrenheit, but if you
have a heavy parka, I recommend at least stopping by for a drink of tira--I don't know
what's in it, and I hate to ask, but it's worth it.
Seam is also home to the Firedragon Inn and the Final Rest. Both cater more to
the hard drinkers rather than the picky eaters. The Firedragon is more likely to host
a bar brawl--if you like quiet conversation, I recommend the Final Rest.
On into Aruak, you'll find the Bulldog Inn, a place for food, drink, gambling, or
sleeping--whatever you're looking for, you're likely to find it. The food is tasty
and the companionship unequaled.
In Point, you'll discover the Ogre's Crypt. Run by the same people as the Blind
Cyclops Inn of Aradi, it offers a similar style of cuisine. It's been rumored that
offworld "soft drinks" are also available here, although that is strictly hearsay.
Enjoyable, always.
Across the channel in Iaye there rests one of the finest inns in Alastari, the
Dragon's Blood Inn. Notable not only for its fine food and excellent selection of
imported wines and liquors, the Dragon's Blood has one of the most welcoming interiors
of any inn I've seen. The large downstairs rooms are divided into a gigantic "common"
room with a fireplace large enough for five men to stand in--frequently to be found
there entire sides of beef, slow cooking for the evening's meals. A "party" room can
either be closed off from the main room for private gatherings or added to the
spacious quality. Smaller rooms are also available. Also, the Dragon's Blood offers
the best whiskey I've ever tasted. Also in Iaye is the Rat's Nest. Found on the
northern waterfront, it is mostly a tavern and well known mostly for its taxidermy.
The walls are a veritable museum of native Alastarian wildlife. Gambling, drinking,
and women are the main staples here.
Back on the mainland, I stopped in Khalhums long enough to listen to the music in
the Blues Hall--not much on food, but the drinks are generous and well priced, and the
music unbeatable. Also in Khalhums is the Black Sheep Inn; it's a large barn-shaped
building not far from the arena that serves good food (mostly mutton, but it's lean
and well-cooked) and excellent spirits.
Going down into the Federation, I found an exciting place in Sunset called
Wildlife Unlimited--anything you want, you're likely to find it here. All forms of
entertainment, any drink imaginable, food from lands all over Alastari and beyond.
Part of the profits of Wildlife Unlimited goes to the training, research, and
development of warriors. Also in Sunset I found the Baba Yaga's Bar and Grill, with
great beer served in gigantic mugs with large tin plates heaped with filling, tasty
food. It's a comfortable, friendly place that I recommend highly to anyone traveling
down that way. Across the street is a large casino called Cagliostro's Castle--very
classy place that caters to the "better class" of gambler. A very enjoyable evening
can be had there if you win--the drinks are a bit on the expensive side, but the
liquor is the best.
Crossing over to nearby Transel, stop by the Sultan's Tent. The menu is
extensive, serving dishes from most of this corner of the world; I highly recommend
the Nianian Firefish. The drinks are good, with a big selection to choose from, and
the entertainment excellent. The ambiance can't be beat, with a massive firepit sunk
into the center of the common room; when the fire is out, a stage can be pulled over
it for more of the entertainment. I suggest stopping by on the weekends, when the
fire is lit and the overhead skylight drawn back--quite a sight! It's made mostly of
mahogany and marble, and is kept up well.
In Tricorus, there were several places that caught my eye, but most notable is
the Blue Dolphin Inn. The Blue Dolphin is a large establishment reminiscent of the
Dragon's Blood; comfortable and roomy, with gigantic bay windows looking out at the
massive Tricoran monument, Three-Horn Mountain. The food is good, if plain fare, with
healthy portions at a reasonable price. Excellent drinks. Highly recommended. They
naturally specialize in Tricorus' delicious gold brandy.
In Delarq Tor, if you can find it and get in, there is Ho's Pleasure Club.
"Pleasure" is the operative term. Fortunately, I had a face the doorman liked AND the
hundred bashari cover charge and was allowed in without being beaten to a pulp (as I
saw happen to some other hapless fellow). The music is loud and tasteless, as are the
women--apparently there is a house rule that the only women allowed are sluts or
royalty. There is gambling, regulated by the house and the house takes profits from
all winners. The drinks are watery. The house rules are strict. I got out before I
was thrown out.
In Talcama, if you're in the mood to be silly, stop by at the House of Jello and
watch the wrestling matches. Apparently, better food and drink is served upstairs,
but the entire purpose of the House of Jello is to go down to the pit and watch the
action. It's just for fun, and that it is. If you're there, go.
I found the Choking Ogre in Cliffhome, and I enjoyed it tremendously. It is an
extensive building with a high ceiling, a combination tavern and gamehouse. The food
is excellent--daring, spicy, and dramatic, presented well and cooked to perfection.
The portions are healthy, as are the drinks--sometimes necessary when having the Hot
Spiced Miniature Potatoes! Everything is reasonably priced.
In Rocanis, there were too many taverns to choose from. The Wanton Troll,
Mylar's, the Grub & Rub Bar & Bistro, and on--I finally settled on the Wanton Troll,
for its popularity. The outside isn't promising, and being greeted by the six foot
tall (and wide) proprietress, the wanton troll herself, Beulah, is a trifle
frightening. However, once you get past her (if you don't know the password, flirt a
little with her and she'll let you in), you'll find it's all worth it. It's a
boisterous, crowded place, generally full of loud talk and laughter. Hot and spicy
food is plentiful, and the drinks are served in large, often iced, mugs. On a good
night both are excellent, although it sometimes depends on the cook. It's always
enjoyable, though, and it's a place I've been back to.
Further north on the eastern side of Alastari, I found Salty's Chowder House in
Morya--a seaport tavern inland; and worth it for the food, the house special Chowder.
It's thick and filling and VERY tasty. I was disappointed to find none of the more
impressive drinks; southern wine for the most part, although Arkers pale ale in that
neck of the woods is worth the price.
In Lapur there were a number of taverns, with the Burned Tree (formerly the
Gnarled Tree, before a fire gutted the old building; it has been re-built) being the
first on my list--a pleasant place with excellent drinks but the food was only so-so
without much of a selection. The Blue Rose Tavern served up better food but only
three varieties of beer and again, only southern wines. The Drowned Rat offered an
good whiskey but only had pretzels and nuts.
I found a small tavern in Monuntial called Pontiff's Potent Potables; the food
was plain fare of the meat & potatoes variety--unremarkable but plentiful and tasty,
reasonably priced--HOWEVER, the excellent and exotic array of drinkables makes this a
definite find. Each of the drinks seems to have a quality all its own; you definitely
leave feeling good. Fighting is discouraged and weapons are checked at the door.
Reservations are recommended.
I cut back up to the Isle here, and found several excellent places. Just outside
Willow Beach, near the Darkholm arena, is the fabulous Eve's Palace Casino--upper
crust, upper class, and definitely worth the price. An excellent place to spend an
evening.
In Talahya, I stopped by E-Snee's Bar & Grill; ordinary food for ordinary prices.
Generally good. Nearby is the "food market," which is a block of restaurants of all
kinds. You can find everything from southern desert cuisine to the exotic stuff of
the Northwights. If you're on the Isle, you could try a new restaurant every day.
Talahya's Market District is home to restaurants of every shape and size, serving food
from all over Alastari and Lirith Kai. Not far from the Primus Arena and the Grey
Tower, this street of little restaurants, taverns, and theatres is a must if you are
just passing through. Check it out and you'll find what you're looking for,
guaranteed.
Over in Andorak, the Crimson Eagle caters to all whims; food, drink, lodging,
gambling--a very classy-looking place, serves to all types and has a good selection.
Also in Andorak you'll find the Sightless Dragon, a smaller but no less welcoming
environment with excellent live music nightly.
Close by, near the Home Guard arena, is the ever-popular Bash & Glug--food and
drink, plenty of both, for a good price. Fun, fights, & frolic is the rule here, no
weapons allowed. Their early morning breakfast bar is a MUST. Also here is an Ice
Cream Parlor under the name Arthur's Last Stand (I'll explain that shortly). Exotic
flavors, good on a hot day or any day.
Arthur's Last Stand is a "chain" of taverns operated in the cities of Talcama,
Caer, Morya, Dullens, and Willow Beach (Darkholm). They are the same wherever you
find them; friendly, with decent drinks and decent food. Recommended if you are
someplace that they are--familiar, comfortable surroundings.
If you know of a tavern or eating establishment in your city that you would like
to recommend, let us know about it!
-- Swift
JESSIE'S GUIDE TO A GOOD BASHER (3rd Edition)
Greetings. This is a 3rd edition of "Jessie's guide to a good BASHER." I have a
little more time to upgrade my second article to give you some more info regarding my
favorite style. The major changes are in the weapons and strategies section. But
read the whole thing, I've made other changes as well. Also, this article doesn't
discuss the SCUM basher or other mutant variations of this style. It deals mainly
with ones meant to last past 10-15 fights.
Most new mangers or managers that don't run bashers that much don't understand
how to make a good basher. Needless to say, they don't run them right, either. Even
with my hoard of bashers, each one varies somewhat.
The 4 MOST important things to a basher are DECISE skills, ATTACK skills, DAMAGE
bonus, and maintaining the INITIATIVE. This is also the order of importance as well.
Bashers also learn ATTACK, DECISE and INITIATIVE skills faster than other skills.
They are very similar to slashers in many ways.
1. DECISE SKILLS: A basher needs to strike first, and this is why his number of
decise skills must be high. His bigger size will give him bonus DECISE skills, as
well as bonus INITIATIVE skills. Bashers have poor defense and parrying abilities,
this is why they need to gain the initiative. A BASHER'S best defense is a good
OFFENSE. Speed also gives decise skills. But I don't add to speed, 'cause speed isn't
vital to a basher or his performance.
2. ATTACK: After gaining the initiative, the number of attack skills will
determine when he hits or not. Bashers need to hit what they swing at, cause they may
not get another chance to swing. I recommend a 10+ base in attack for a basher. This
means he should have a HIGH ORDER WIT statement for attack. The higher the attack
rating, the easier it will be to get through the parries and dodges of the opponent.
If you check the WIT statement chart and he doesn't have HIGH ORDER attack, he may not
do well.
3. DAMAGE: This is a MUST for any basher. Would recommend no less than a GOOD
DAMAGE rating. I prefer GREAT DAMAGE for my bashers, or more. A basher must be able
to do ALOT of damage when he hits, 'cause he is trying to bring his opponent down
fast. Because he can't afford to let his opponent attack back with the low defensive
abilities the basher has. That is why he needs to make every hit count.
4. INITIATIVE: He needs to start with at least a LOW ORDER initiative WIT
statement. He needs to maintain his attacks to get enough hits to bring his opponent
down, so there is no counter-attack. It does no good to strike first if he can't
maintain his initiative. Big size, high WIT, and high DEFTNESS will give your basher
extra starting INITIATIVE skills.
Designing a good basher doesn't take a rocket scientist. If you've been
wondering what to do with big guys, BASHER is the answer. Bashers make excellent
BASIC warriors. And if you get one that has some defensive abilities as well as
offense, he might be good at the higher levels of the game. Smaller bashers that have
higher skill bases fare better at higher levels of the game than bigger ones with less
skill. The only problem with small ones is surviving BASIC. 'Cause, they don't have
the DAMAGE or HIT POINTS the big ones have.
Strength: 10-17 Don't skimp, you need the damage. But WIT is the first
concern. Strength is number 3 in the priority race. You might need a little higher
if you have a small one. Remember you want to at least get a GOOD DAMAGE rating. You
can also train strength later, so don't worry about starting with it too high. I
always try to get odd numbers on strength, 'cause that's where most of the strength
requirements are for basher weapons. 15, 17, 21 STR also give extra skills.
Constitution: 6+ Try to get it to a least 6. If you already have it above 6,
don't add points here. This is low priority for adding points.
Size: 9+ is recommended, but I wouldn't go below 6 unless you got at least a 15
strength. If you have a size 15+, then you can go as low as 10 on the strength. A
QS, only needs an 11 strength to wield. You can use it till you get a 12 or more
strength to wield the bashers best weapon the WARHAMMER. Don't forget big size! 12+
get bonus HIT POINTS, DECISE SKILLS, and INITIATIVE SKILLS. But they also get a
penalty in their starting DEFENSE skills. Smaller ones, 8 or less, get bonus defense,
but less hit points. They also get hosed on DAMAGE bonus. But, the smaller ones
usually start out with more skills than the bigger ones.
WIT: 15, 17 or 21. Since a basher starts out with lower skill bases than most
styles, he needs to learn fast. Even if he is only an average basher, he can make up
for it by learning fast. Having a high WIT will help him learn fast. If you have a
slow learning basher, he won't be competitive after about 10 to 15 fights. The reason
is because the other styles that start with more skills than a basher will pass him up
in the skills department. This will cause many losses and even death. This is a
number ONE priority when adding points.
WILL: If you can't get 15, 17, or 21, don't add points here. WILL is not a
basher priority. If you want your basher to go to ADM, you need at least a 15 WILL.
Bashers are low endurance burn, and don't need high endurance. But it is nice to
have. Some of the best short term Bashers have low wills.
Speed: 5+. Speed is not a basher priority. Don't add points here. I don't
like 3 speeds, I believe there is a voodoo curse that penalizes you too much.
DEFTNESS: Many managers skimp here. DON'T SKIP on deftness. I see many
managers see that a roll up has low deftness and automatically say, "Make it a
basher." That greatly damages your basher. For a lunger or slasher who already have
ALOT of skill to start out with, it's okay to have a low deftness. But not a basher
who doesn't have those skills. Deftness is where most of the bonus skills come from.
Don't ROB your basher of the skills, he needs all he can get. I recommend 13+. 11 is
okay if you have a 17 or 21 WIT. I never go below 9 deftness, period.
BASHER WEAPONS: After experimenting with all of the basher weapons extensively,
I have more info in this area to give.
Basher Weapon Requirements :
Warhammer: STR 13, Size 3, WIT 9, DEF 7
Mace: Str 13, Size 3, WIT 7, DEF 5
Morning Star: Str 13, Size 3, WIT 9, DEF 13
War Flail: Str 11, Size 3, WIT 7, DEF 7
Quarterstaff: Str 11, Size 9, WIT 11, DEF 11
Great Axe: Str 13, Size 3, WIT 9, DEF 11
Great Sword: Str 15, Size 9, WIT 11, DEF 11
Maul: Str 15, Size 9, WIT 5, DEF 7
Halberd: Str 17, Size 9, WIT 11, DEF 11
Those weapons above are well suited to the basher. Also, weapons that are marginally
suitable are battle axe, broadsword, and fist. You do get a little penalty for using
marginally suitable weapons, but not enough to notice. Your basher's favorite weapon
can only be a well suited one.
Besides strength, other important factors that determine what weapon you equip
your basher with are ENDURANCE and current ATTACK skill level.
If your basher has an ENDURANCE problem, use the QS or WH. Or if he is fighting
against a heavy armored defensive style, these weapons are the best choice. Warhammer
is good against plate. Don't use a ML or HL with an endurance problem, 'cause he
won't last past round one.
If your basher hasn't gained enough skill yet, and is being parried most of the
time, use BIGGER weapons. If you have the strength and endurance use the ML or HL.
Using these weapons will increase the damage you do, making each hit count. In basic,
when weapon speed its a major factor, big weapons aren't really that slow. It is very
easy to a jump your opponent using a HL or ML, I do it all the time.
Another tactic I use often with great success is using big weapons for light
armor and lighter ones for heavy armor. Most offensives in basic wear lighter armor
and have fewer hit points. Offensive styles are more deadly to bashers than defensive
styles. Therefore you need to bring them down as quickly as possible. Using a HL or
ML against scale armor or less, usually only takes one or 2 hits to bring an offensive
style down. Defensive styles parry and dodge a lot of your attacks, so you need a
lighter weapon so you won't tire out quickly. Using a warhammer for chainmail and
above will let you last long enough to bring a defensive style down. Warhammer also
does very well against heavy armor.
WARHAMMER: 13 STR required. This is the BEST weapon for a basher without a
doubt. Its light weight and speed are unchallenged against all the other Basher
weapons. It also does a surprising amount of damage. Can be used against all armors
with great success. This weapon rarely breaks.
MACE: 13 STR required. This is an okay weapon, but doesn't compare to the
WARHAMMER. It has problems inflicting damage.
Morningstar: 13 STR and 13 DEFT required. Does good damage, but is slow and
heavy. Isn't worth the endurance burn.
War Flail: 11 STR required. The is the WORST weapon in the game. DON'T USE
IT!!!!! Damage for this weapon is very lame and I have see it bounce off of ALE and
NO ARMOR opponents. I believe daggers and fist do more damage!
Quarterstaff: 11 STR and DEFT required. This two handed weapon is light weight,
quick and good against all armors. This is a basher's fourth best weapon. This
weapon's main problem is that it breaks too much. I use the FIST as a backup when I
use the QS, so when it breaks he doesn't have to draw a backup weapon. Offensive
styles may not give you a chance to draw your backup weapon. With a fist back-up you
will continue attacking after your weapon has broken, maintaining your initiative.
Great Axe: 13 STR and 11 DEFT required. This is also much like the QS, but
weighs a little more. Does more damage than a QS. It will tire your basher faster.
This weapon also breaks a lot.
Maul: 15 STR required. Does massive damage, but is very heavy and tiresome.
This weapon is a better all-around weapon than the halberd. This is the 2nd best
bashing weapon.
Halberd: 17 Str required. Does the most damage in the game. This weapon also
is only for those warriors who have the strength and the endurance for it. This is a
basher's third best weapon.
Greatsword: 15 STR required. See WAR FLAIL. This weapon also breaks a lot.
Shields: Are well suited to bashers, but don't ever use one. They do hardly any
damage. Don't ever use a shield and any other weapon in a bashers OFF-HAND. They
rarely use their OFF-hand to parry and when they do use it to attack with, they do
less damage. When the computer gets to the part in the program where it selects which
hand to use, you want him to use his PRIMARY weapon to do the most DAMAGE. Not to
pick an off-hand weapon that does lessor damage. Also you get an attack bonus for
using two hands with many weapons.
Bashers favorite weapon: Well, out of 90 Basher ADM graduates, the following is
a list of their favorite weapons.
MS(9), MA(17), GA(5), GS(9), ML(9), WF(8), HL(8), WH(7), QS(9), ME(2), LG(8)
You have to try each of them if you want to guess which one it is. If you're
lucky and get the WH, then praise the gods!!
16 of the 90 bashers got the BASH tactic as their favorite tactic. But I
wouldn't use the BASH tactic; the DECISE tactic is awesome for a BASHER. I use it
with all my bashers. Two bashers got DECISE as a favorite tactic. Bash is only good
to use against strong defensive styles after round one. I have used the DEFENSE or
PARRY Tactics in desperation with great success. I will chose the one that the basher
has a WIT statement in. IE: If he has a DEFENSE statement, I use DEFENSE tactic in
DESP. If a parry statement, then PARRY in DESP. If neither, then PARRY 'cause it's
almost always higher than DEFENSE for a basher.
Basher Armor: ALE/S or H to start. If he doesn't seem to get the jump on most
of his opponents, then go to heavy armor. You can `sponge' your opponents by taking
hits and hope to hit them when they're tired. But if they do to much damage to you
first, you will lose.
Favorite Rhythms: Offensive effort should be between 8-10 the first minute and
5-8 there after. In DESP. 5-10. Activity Level should be 5-10 in the first minute
and 1-3 thereafter. IN DESP between 1-10. KD between 5-7 all rounds.
Typical Strategy:
MIN: 1 2 3 4 5 6 DESP
========================================
OFF. 10 8 5 5 5 5 10
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AVT. 10 1 1 1 1 1 6
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KD. 7 6 6 6 6 6 6
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Att. RA RA RA RA RA RA RA
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Pro. HE HE HE HE HE HE HE
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TAC. DECISE in minute one. Bash in later minutes against scum or heavy defensive
styles. Defense or Parry in DESP.
If you aim for the limbs, you can take your opponent down quickly. Bashers tend to
hit the upper half of the body more anyhow.
Well, that's a wrap. If you would like to chat, get charts, or learn all the
stuff RSI doesn't tell you, drop me a line. You can diplo me in Primus DM102, "The
Joker's WILD" or any one of my others teams that are too numerous to list. Also, you
can EMAIL me at 103260.3347@compuserve.com
Ta-Ta,
Sir Jessie Jest
The Basher Guy