DUEL 2 NEWSLETTER

Date   : 06/09/2017    Duedate: 06/22/2017

NOBLISH ISLAND ARENA

DM-93    TURN-480

This Weeks Top Honors

THE DUELMASTER IS

THUNDER WONDER
DARK CLOUDS (1719)
(93-10029) [8-2-0,88]

Chartered Recognition Leader   Unchartered Recognition Leader

THUNDER WONDER                 ANNE BONNY
DARK CLOUDS (1719)             FAMOUS PIRATES (1720)
(93-10029) [8-2-0,88]          (93-10030) [7-2-1,67]

Popularity Leader              This Weeks Favorite

HASAMI                         ANNE BONNY
DRIFTY DREAMS (1717)           FAMOUS PIRATES (1720)
(93-10016) [4-6-0,32]          (93-10030) [7-2-1,67]

THE CURRENT TOP TEAM

FAMOUS PIRATES (1720)

          TEAMS ON THE MOVE            TOP CAREER HONORS
Team Name                  Point Gain  Chartered Team
1. BASH BROS PEPPER (1721)     39
2. FAMOUS PIRATES (1720)       34      DARK CLOUDS (1719)
3. LINKS OF TERROR (1718)      16      Unchartered Team
4. DRIFTY DREAMS (1717)         5
5. LEGIONS OF FATE (1724)       1      FAMOUS PIRATES (1720)

The Top Teams

Career Win-Loss Record           W   L  K    %  Win-Loss Record Last 3 Turns    W  L K
 1/ 1 DARK CLOUDS (1719)        32  17  0 65.3   1/ 3*FAMOUS PIRATES (1720)    10  5 1
 2/ 2*FAMOUS PIRATES (1720)     29  16  3 64.4   2/ 1 DARK CLOUDS (1719)       10  5 0
 3- 3*ODD SQUAD (1712)          13  11  0 54.2   3/ 6*BASH BROS PEPPER (1721)   9  6 2
 4/ 5*LEGIONS OF FATE (1724)    12  13  1 48.0   4/ 5*LEGIONS OF FATE (1724)    8  7 1
 5/ 6 LINKS OF TERROR (1718)    23  26  1 46.9   5/ 2 DRIFTY DREAMS (1717)      8  7 0
 6/ 4 DRIFTY DREAMS (1717)      23  26  0 46.9   6- 8*MISFIT KINGS (1722)       5  5 0
 7/ 7*BASH BROS PEPPER (1721)   21  24  2 46.7   7/ 7 LINKS OF TERROR (1718)    5 10 0
 8- 8*MISFIT KINGS (1722)       12  18  0 40.0   8- 4*ODD SQUAD (1712)          4  1 0
 9- 9*LIZARD DEN (1723)          3   9  0 25.0   9-10*LIZARD DEN (1723)         0  5 0
10-10*HI NO UMI (1715)           1   4  0 20.0  10- 9*KILL UNIT (1725)          0  3 0
11-11*KILL UNIT (1725)           1   7  0 12.5  11-11*HI NO UMI (1715)          0  1 0

    '*'   Unchartered team                       '-'  Team did not fight this turn
   (###)  Avoid teams by their Team Id          ##/## This turn's/Last turn's rank

                                    TEAM SPOTLIGHT

                   CONSORTIUM RESPONSES TO RECENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
                      (Which Makes for a Nice Little Spotlight)

Asking questions in the Noblish Newsletter or via diplo note are both great ways to 
get information and to better learn the game.  Kudos to those who do so.

1.  Should I take the Red Book and the CIC papers for their word?  Do I need them? 
The Red Book is mostly helpful, occasionally misleading, and often called The Red Book 
of Lies.  Use it carefully.  The CIC, available in the Noblish Isle arena, is a 
compilation of empirical data by many managers working together.  It can be "trusted", 
but it has a minor error here and there.  The best information is available on line.  
Realize this:  There is nothing out there which is perfect.  Note: ALL newbies in 
Noblish Isle should request the CIC package from RSI.  It will be invaluable.

2.  If you put your fighter's favorite weapon on their side, as a backup weapon, will 
they still grab it, even though they have a weapon in their hand? 
Backups are interesting.  If you put a backup in the primary hand and the warrior is 
already holding a primary weapon, he will not try to pull the backup.  If you put a 
backup in the off-hand, and he already is holding an off-hand weapon, he will not try 
to pull the backup.  (In other words, primary backups ONLY go in the primary hand and 
off-hand backups ONLY go in the off-hand.)  Realize, though, that a warrior will not 
automatically draw a backup when that hand is empty.  The draw is dependent on many 
things like luck rolls, heat of the action status, his deftness and/or coordination 
etc.  He most likely will, but not always, try to draw the backup.

3.  When you go to ADM, do you still "burn" skills or is that only during BASIC?
Any time, whether basic or ADM, you raise a stat which contains skills, you are 
burning those skills.  Burnt skills are not really a "bad" thing, especially in basic 
where any skill one can get is a good thing.  Burning skills is only a potential bad 
thing for warriors who plan to earn all twenty skills of a type.

4.  Can I downchallenge? What is downchallenging, anyway? 
A downchallenge occurs when one challenges a warrior lower in recognition points than 
oneself.  There is nothing in the "rules" which precludes this.  In some arenas and 
some circles (usually those Andorian leaning) downchallenging is considered 
unsportsmanlike and a "no no".  In others, especially Darkholm-leaning, it is 
considered perfectly appropriate.  Note: some believe the recognition ranking system 
is a farce or near farce.  Consortium members feel it is a very appropriate rating 
system.

5.  When should I DA a warrior? 
That is a very difficult question to answer, because the real answer is that DAing is 
a very personal decision.  The Consortium very, very seldom uses the DA, thinking that 
any warrior can win; there is much to be learned from running "difficult" warriors; 
and being unwilling to take that nearly automatic loss to the record.  Other managers 
and groups DA freely.  Perhaps these are the most common reasons:  "I do not know how 
to/cannot make that warrior win."  "It is an ugly design."  "I want only godlings in 
my stables."  "The warrior is greatly hosed."  "It is just not a good enough design."  
"It is not a tournament quality warrior."  "It just will not win."  Etc....  So, there 
is no real answer for when you SHOULD DA; rather it is a question of when or if you 
WANT TO DA.

6.  What makes a "scum" really a scum?
"Scum" tends to apply to a warrior that wins by absorbing hit point damage, wearing an 
opponent out rather than damaging him, and seldom swinging (and often not even 
carrying) a real weapon.  Shields tend to be a scum's best friend.  While the Total 
Parry style is considered the best scum style, other styles can scum.  Very high CN, 
WL, and ST plus near zero offensiveness, are common attributes for a scum.

7.  Can a high will "15, 17" and a low wit "9" make it to ADM?
Most certainly warriors as such can graduate.  (Make it to ADM) Almost any design can 
make it to ADM.  The Consortium finds a 3 will warrior to be the most difficult.  Here 
are a few of the most recent of the 1000+ Consortium graduates which fit your 
question:

     11-5-11-11-9-16-21 AB
     11-16-14-5-16-9-13 TP
     11-16-15-7-16-5-14 BA
     10-10-10-4-17-9-14 TP
     All graduated with winning records.

Of course, it would be "easier to manage and graduate warriors with better designs 
than these.

8.  What numbers should I watch out for, and where should I place them to make my 
warriors more lucky?
We Consortium Managers do not believe one can make or design luck into a warrior.  WE 
know of no model for such.  Luck or blessing or hosing is just that: the luck of the 
roll.

9.  What do I need to do to make my fighter want to wield two weapons, rather than 
one?
All, or virtually all, warriors can wield a weapon in each hand.  All it takes is 
listing a primary and a secondary weapon on the strategy sheet.  If the question is 
"how to get a warrior to wield two weapons without a penalty message then you must 
make sure your warrior has the strength, size, and deftness to do so.  A warrior may 
not wield a two-handed weapon (such as a HL or a GS, etc.) in one hand, hence cannot 
wield two such weapons together.  The real question might be, should a warrior have a 
weapon in each hand? Our answer is usually "no".  Having only one weapon can allow a 
warrior to use certain weapons two-handed (e.g., BS) making it more powerful.  Having 
one weapon means less carry/weight.  Having one only means the warrior will not 
attempt to swing with a "lesser" weapon.  (Off-hand is lesser than primary.) BUT, some 
warriors do better with a shield to parry alongside a true weapon.  There are other 
reasons to wield two, but I rate wielding one best in 80%+ of the circumstances.

10.  How can I kill?
Killing can be more complicated than it seems.  To kill, first, you have to win.  A 
warrior can be killed outright by another warrior.  Also a losing warrior can go to 
the infirmary and randomly die.  Approximately 2% of all warriors that lose a battle 
can die randomly.  While that "kill" was somewhat randomly caused, it still goes on 
the winner's record, and the loser is dead.  So, DO NOT LOSE.  It can be life 
threatening.  Direct killing is highly dependent on the death die roll.  High kill 
desires and aiming for vitals (HE, AB, CH) optimize the warrior's potential to kill.  
A blow to a vital, whether aimed there or not, may (die roll) cause the hitter to get 
a death intent statement.  A direct kill will not occur without getting this death 
statement (example: "wants to be the only one to come out of this fight alive.")  
Death after the statement is dependent on many things, some, dependent on the loser's 
makeup.  After a death intent, the loser may die, or the loser may give up, or, the 
seemingly loser can even fight back and possibly win or even kill for a victory. 

Feel free to ask us questions, not only in DM93, or in any arena where you find 
Consortium folk.  We like questions.  It can make this spotlight longer!

                 -- Old Pegleg's Personal Assistant and Publicist (For The Consortium)

***---------*---------*---------*---------**---------*---------*---------*---------***

                                    Staying Alive

Death is part of dueling.  This sport is dangerous!  But there are things that a 
manager can do to help keep his warriors alive.  Nothing is a sure thing, and a 
warrior with maximum hit points (21 con/siz/will) can still die.  There is some luck 
involved regardless, and luck can run both ways.  But here are the experiences of 
Assur with keeping warriors alive.

1) WIN!  It is impossible to die unless you lose a fight.  In fact, some of the 
suggestions later on may hinder your ability to win somewhat, so this should be the 
first and highest priority in keeping your warriors alive.

2) Wear armor.  Any armor.  Especially a helm.  It is Assur's experience that warriors 
with NO armor die way more often than warriors that wear armor.  On the other side of 
that, Assur has no conclusive proof that APA gives any additional protection against 
death than ALE.  It likely does, but the benefit from none to ALE is much greater than 
ALE to higher armors.  SO...  ALE/L at minimum.

3) Lower your KD, especially in desperation.  There are tons of theories about what 
different KD does, but nobody is completely sure.  But Assur has found that is does 
change your ability to kill and be killed.  Want to live? Go low, really low. Want to 
die?  Go high, really high.  Assur guesses that it changes your desire to keep 
fighting (both winning and losing) and the arenamaster respects that and lets the 
fight continue or ends it sooner.

4) Protect HE and/or BD.  If it is a warrior that Assur really wants to live, he'll 
often protect one of these areas during minutes 1-6, and another in desperation.

5) Hit Points, especially Size and Will.  Smaller warriors seems to die more often.  
it is also believe that Will is directly related to the stat the is checked when your 
warrior enters the infirmary.

6) Stay away from known killers.  See that 3rd number in your opponent's record?  It 
means something.  If that number is anything greater than 0, it means your opponent 
has killed before.  When that number is 2 or higher, it suggests that you may not want 
to fight that warrior (or if you do, make sure you win).

7) Look for managers that aren't killers.  You will definitely see patterns over time.  
Divide kills by wins for a team's career record.  That is a great indicator as to how 
bloodthirsty a manager is.  0.10 is a very high kill ratio.  0.05 is a manager who 
probably tries NOT to kill.

8) Stay away from huge mismatches.  For whatever reason, it happens over and over 
again.  Young upstart challenges or is matched against very old veteran.  The end is 
an early demise for the arrogant young upstart.

9) Fight warriors that aren't going to kill.  The opposite of #6, but this goes one 
further.  Pure scum Total Parries that let a warrior run himself to exhaustion don't 
kill very often (since they don't attack very often).  However, see the final item.

10) Stay out of exhaustion.  Warriors seem to die much more often when they are 
completely exhausted.  Your opponent starts hammering down the blows and your warrior 
takes blow after blow.

As I began, you can't ensure your warrior will never die, but you can do everything in 
your power to prevent it.

                                      SPY REPORT

     Well, what are you looking at, NOBLISH ISLAND?  Ain't you never seen Snide 
Clemens before?  Ah, shaddup and listen to my news.  Later days, DARK CLOUDS, since 
FAMOUS PIRATES took top team from you this turn, you guys are old news.  If this 
keeps up, ODD SQUAD, you'll have to shine swords instead of use them.  A drop of 4 in 
the rankings?  BASH BROS PEPPER turned their 4-1-0 turn into a 3rd place rank in the 
listings this turn.  Any better than this, and you get put on hit lists.  Gee, I'm 
impressed, a 4-1-1 is nice, but don't get cocky, FAMOUS PIRATES, the Fates teach 
humility, and the Fates are proud.  Of course, we're all terribly impressed to see 
LONG JOHN SILVER win a fight and gain 20 points, terribly.  Tsk, tsk, HASAMI beat 
DUNCAN and DUNCAN lost 12 points.  You're breakin' my heart.  Our Duelmaster has 
lost, folks, lost to KHALHUMS DWARF, BUT THUNDER WONDER is still the Duelmaster 
because she has the most recognition points!  I'm not in a very good mood today, but 
why am I telling you this?  You want to know what's new, don't you, NOBLISH ISLAND?   
     My mother always told me, 'If you don't have anything nice to say, start 
talking.' I loved that woman.  NOBLISH ISLAND, I am losing what little hope I had in 
you.  ODD SQUAD the most avoided team?  What insult will suffice, I cannot say.  And 
it looks like FAMOUS PIRATES avoided them the most this turn.  What a pack of would 
be losers, if you ask me.  Hmph.   
     Death and Taxes.  The less death I see, the more it taxes my patience.  Let's 
see if anyone's dead or dying.  Let's see, 7-3-0.  Pretty good record for a living 
warrior.  A sad one though, for a dead one.  Such is the case for JINGLE BELL of 
DRIFTY DREAMS.  Tsk.  Honor is like a chainmail shirt, it only shines through use.  
Certain nameless cowards will doubtless rebuke me on this one.   
     There's got to be a better place in NOBLISH ISLAND to get a drink than The 
Swinging Aardvark!  Any suggestions?  Just wait 'till next time I show up here, I 
won't be so nice!  So nyaaah!  Paste this one in your scrapbooks, you'll need the 
kindling come this winter-- Snide Clemens  

DUELMASTER                     W   L  K POINTS      TEAM NAME                  
 THUNDER WONDER 10029          8   2  0    88       DARK CLOUDS (1719)

CHAMPIONS                      W   L  K POINTS      TEAM NAME                  
 ANNE BONNY 10030              7   2  1    67       FAMOUS PIRATES (1720)

ADEPTS                         W   L  K POINTS      TEAM NAME                  
 LONG JOHN SILVER 10063        5   1  1    49       FAMOUS PIRATES (1720)
 CAPTAIN KIDD 10034            7   2  1    47       FAMOUS PIRATES (1720)
 BLACKBEARD 10031              7   2  0    47       FAMOUS PIRATES (1720)
 RAN OUT 10035                 5   4  0    45       BASH BROS PEPPER (1721)
 KIRENN 10020                  7   2  1    44       LINKS OF TERROR (1718)
 BONGO 10027                   6   4  0    44       DARK CLOUDS (1719)
 CANDY CANE 10019              4   6  0    37       DRIFTY DREAMS (1717)
 FILL THE SHAKER 10036         5   4  1    35       BASH BROS PEPPER (1721)

CHALLENGER INITIATES           W   L  K POINTS      TEAM NAME                  
 HASAMI 10016                  4   6  0    32       DRIFTY DREAMS (1717)
 RAIN STORM 10028              9   1  0    31       DARK CLOUDS (1719)
 NOT ENOUGH 10038              4   5  1    31       BASH BROS PEPPER (1721)
-OLIVE 10061                   2   1  0    31       ODD SQUAD (1712)
 GOING WITHOUT 10037           6   3  0    28       BASH BROS PEPPER (1721)
-JINXEE 9988                   5   1  0    28       ODD SQUAD (1712)
 DAKUROZU 10026                3   6  0    27       DARK CLOUDS (1719)
 AZNA 10067                    3   2  0    27       LINKS OF TERROR (1718)
-BEOWULFISH 10043              3   3  0    25       MISFIT KINGS (1722)
-ODDO 10060                    3   0  0    25       ODD SQUAD (1712)

INITIATES                      W   L  K POINTS      TEAM NAME                  
 ONIHANA 10017                 3   6  0    23       DRIFTY DREAMS (1717)
 ELYTRA 10025                  6   4  0    22       DARK CLOUDS (1719)
 TONARION 10024                4   6  0    19       LINKS OF TERROR (1718)
-LADYHAWKEYE 10044             3   3  0    19       MISFIT KINGS (1722)
 LUTHIEN 10059                 3   2  0    19       LEGIONS OF FATE (1724)
 JOPAR 10023                   4   6  0    18       LINKS OF TERROR (1718)
 CHEESE 10074                  3   1  0    18       DRIFTY DREAMS (1717)
 NIKODEMUS 10076               1   1  0    17       LEGIONS OF FATE (1724)
-MOLOCH 10052                  1   1  0    15       LIZARD DEN (1723)
-SIR TALON 10046               3   3  0    13       MISFIT KINGS (1722)
 HENRY MORGAN 10032            2   7  0    13       FAMOUS PIRATES (1720)
 DUNCAN 10058                  3   2  1    12       LEGIONS OF FATE (1724)
-AUTUMNBE 9643                 3   2  0    12       CAVEAT EMPTOR (1657)
 NOTHING 10039                 1   8  0    11       BASH BROS PEPPER (1721)

INITIATES                      W   L  K POINTS      TEAM NAME                  
-MS. O 10073                   1   1  0    11       ODD SQUAD (1712)
-OTOKO 10008                   1   0  0    10       HI NO UMI (1715)
 SYMGARA 10056                 2   3  0     9       LEGIONS OF FATE (1724)
 KORLAN 10077                  2   0  0     9       LEGIONS OF FATE (1724)
-OAK 10062                     2   1  0     9       ODD SQUAD (1712)
-CZAR URLIK 10075              1   1  0     9       MISFIT KINGS (1722)
-DRAXXUS 9644                  1   4  0     7       CAVEAT EMPTOR (1657)
-SCOTCH MARY 10066             1   3  0     6       MISFIT KINGS (1722)
-BORON 10072                   1   1  0     5       KILL UNIT (1725)
-KOMODOENSIS 10048             1   2  0     5       LIZARD DEN (1723)
-CHAMAELEONTIDAE 10050         1   1  0     4       LIZARD DEN (1723)
-SEARRUS 9645                  0   4  0     4       CAVEAT EMPTOR (1657)
-PERSEPHONE 9642               0   4  0     4       CAVEAT EMPTOR (1657)
-AGRISEL 9646                  0   4  0     4       CAVEAT EMPTOR (1657)
-DRACO AGAMIDAE 10051          0   2  0     2       LIZARD DEN (1723)
-LORD OF WAR 10068             0   2  0     2       KILL UNIT (1725)
-KIM 10069                     0   2  0     2       KILL UNIT (1725)
-SANCHOO 10006                 0   1  0     1       HI NO UMI (1715)
 LEPAN 10078                   0   1  0     1       LINKS OF TERROR (1718)
-YOSHI 10007                   0   1  0     1       HI NO UMI (1715)
-ONNA NO KO 10009              0   1  0     1       HI NO UMI (1715)
-KIMIKO 10005                  0   1  0     1       HI NO UMI (1715)
-ZENITH 10070                  0   1  0     1       KILL UNIT (1725)
-CARVER 10071                  0   1  0     1       KILL UNIT (1725)

'-' denotes a warrior who did not fight this turn.

THE DEAD                W  L K TEAM NAME            SLAIN BY              TURN Revenge?
JINGLE BELL 10015       7  3 0 DRIFTY DREAMS 1717   LONG JOHN SILVE 10063 480   
BALTHAZAR 10057         1  2 0 LEGIONS OF FATE 1724 NOT ENOUGH 10038      478   
BLIEW IZE 10055         0  3 0 LEGIONS OF FATE 1724 FILL THE SHAKER 10036 478   
BASILISCUS 10049        0  3 0 LIZARD DEN 1723      DUNCAN 10058          479   

                                     PERSONAL ADS

Blimey, Assur, me matey!  Forcin', ye says?  Methinks aaarrrggghhh, be bestun.  Aye.  
Bloody funnin' er bloody crazy!  Aye. -- Old Pegleg

Not Enough, it was plenty enough for me! -- Long John Silver (countin' his pieces o' 
eight)

Ladyhawkeye, ye be easy, lass.  methinks me likes that. -- Blackbeard

Dakurozu, that was a fine fight.  I lucked out the winner.  Kudos! -- Captain Kidd

Oddo,I think, perhaps, I am the odd one.  Well fought. -- Henry Morgan

Jingle Bell, I love winning -- all the way! -- Anne Bonny

Where are all the personal ads?  Can the managers of Noblish Isle read and write?  Or 
they a bunch of landlubbin' scallywags? -- Old Pegleg's Personal Assistant

Assur -- No worries, the weapons can be deadly no matter what your strategy is.  I 
would like the facts about Bloodfeuds.  I have no access to the internet/forums.  The 
only info I have seen is the "Red Book of Alastari." It seems to indicate that a 
Bloodfeud is necessary in order to avoid penalties. Good luck to all, but maybe a 
smidgen more to myself.  :) -- Bliew, Legions of Fate

"So what is the deal with the upcoming Grand Tourney!?!"  Well 4 times a year, the 
commission hosts a tournament for warriors to test their mettle against all the other 
warriors of the land, to determine who the best of the best is.

"Should I enter my warriors?!?"  Well know that over 30 years, managers have been 
perfecting design and strategies to win these things.  They are VERY competitive. If 
you want to learn and just gain a bit of experience, and don't mind the entry fees, go 
for it.  Otherwise, I'd ask for advice on whether your warriors are 'good' enough to 
enter.  From the Initiates class to the Champions class, 21 wit rules the world (and 
many of those 21 wit warriors don't have a lot of weaknesses in other areas, either).

"So how do I make and find warriors that CAN compete?  And what strategy should my 
warrior use?"  Egads -- that is the makings of a set of spotlights that I'm not 
qualified to write.  And the 15-30 years of experience that so many managers have is 
something that takes time to gather.  Just learn what you can and find out what makes 
a great warrior.  An example of striker that I'm going to send to the Initiates 
tournament:  21-4-7-21-9-11-11 ST.  He is learning great (looks like favorite learn of 
attack), but is too slow to be a real threat (hasn't even gotten an Expert rating yet) 
and hasn't shown anything in the past -- 0-3 in Rookies and 3-3 in Apprentices.

Certainly I would recommend you take ventures into the tournament game, but realize 
that it is hard and you'll see failure and success (and very few managers don't see 
both, even the very, very best).  -- Assur

                                  LAST WEEK'S FIGHTS

SYMGARA was devastated by NOT ENOUGH in a 1 minute mismatched Bloodfeud fight.
ONIHANA lost to RAIN STORM in a action packed 3 minute Challenge battle.
NIKODEMUS demolished NOTHING in a 1 minute bloody uneven Challenge fight.
THUNDER WONDER was bested by KHALHUMS DWARF in a popular 2 minute brutal Title fight.
ANNE BONNY viciously subdued THE USEROUS MERCHANT in a action packed 2 minute brawl.
BLACKBEARD devastated LUTHIEN in a 1 minute mismatched match.
JINGLE BELL was put to death by LONG JOHN SILVER in a action packed 11 minute fight.
CAPTAIN KIDD won victory over AZNA in a 1 minute gruesome duel.
RAN OUT overpowered ELYTRA in a 1 minute uneven duel.
CANDY CANE was defeated by BONGO in a exciting 2 minute gruesome fight.
KIRENN overpowered CHEESE in a exciting 1 minute one-sided fight.
DAKUROZU slimly lost to FILL THE SHAKER in a crowd pleasing 3 minute conflict.
DUNCAN was demolished by HASAMI in a 1 minute mismatched match.
HENRY MORGAN was beaten by TONARION in a crowd pleasing 1 minute conflict.
GOING WITHOUT overpowered JOPAR in a 1 minute one-sided duel.
KORLAN slimly won victory over LEPAN in a 3 minute brutal beginner's duel.

                                    BATTLE REPORT

             MOST POPULAR                        RECORD DURING THE LAST 10 TURNS     
|FIGHTING STYLE               FIGHTS        FIGHTING STYLE     W -   L -  K   PERCENT|
|STRIKING ATTACK                  6         WALL OF STEEL      7 -   1 -  0      88  |
|BASHING ATTACK                   5         LUNGING ATTACK    23 -  15 -  0      61  |
|AIMED BLOW                       5         TOTAL PARRY       29 -  20 -  2      59  |
|LUNGING ATTACK                   5         AIMED BLOW        33 -  27 -  1      55  |
|TOTAL PARRY                      3         STRIKING ATTACK   31 -  29 -  1      52  |
|PARRY-RIPOSTE                    2         BASHING ATTACK    36 -  35 -  1      51  |
|SLASHING ATTACK                  2         SLASHING ATTACK   12 -  17 -  1      41  |
|PARRY-STRIKE                     1         PARRY-RIPOSTE     13 -  26 -  0      33  |
|WALL OF STEEL                    1         PARRY-STRIKE       5 -  11 -  1      31  |
|PARRY-LUNGE                      0         PARRY-LUNGE        0 -   4 -  0       0  |

Turn 480 was great if you     Not so great if you used      The fighting styles of the
used the fighting styles:     the fighting styles:          top eleven warriors are:

PARRY-STRIKE       1 -  0     AIMED BLOW         2 -  3         3  BASHING ATTACK 
TOTAL PARRY        3 -  0     LUNGING ATTACK     1 -  4         3  AIMED BLOW     
WALL OF STEEL      1 -  0     STRIKING ATTACK    1 -  5         2  STRIKING ATTACK
BASHING ATTACK     4 -  1     PARRY-LUNGE        0 -  0         2  TOTAL PARRY    
PARRY-RIPOSTE      1 -  1                                       1  SLASHING ATTACK
SLASHING ATTACK    1 -  1     

                               TOP WARRIOR OF EACH STYLE

FIGHTING STYLE   WARRIOR                     W   L  K PNTS TEAM NAME                  
STRIKING ATTACK  THUNDER WONDER 10029        8   2  0   88 DARK CLOUDS (1719)
TOTAL PARRY      LONG JOHN SILVER 10063      5   1  1   49 FAMOUS PIRATES (1720)
BASHING ATTACK   CAPTAIN KIDD 10034          7   2  1   47 FAMOUS PIRATES (1720)
AIMED BLOW       BLACKBEARD 10031            7   2  0   47 FAMOUS PIRATES (1720)
Note: Warriors have a winning record and are an Adept or Above.

The overall popularity leader is HASAMI 10016.  The most popular warrior this turn 
was ANNE BONNY 10030.  The ten other most popular fighters were DAKUROZU 10026, 
THUNDER WONDER 10029, CANDY CANE 10019, ONIHANA 10017, JINGLE BELL 10015, HENRY 
MORGAN 10032, LEPAN 10078, NOT ENOUGH 10038, NIKODEMUS 10076, and CAPTAIN KIDD 10034.

The least popular fighter this week was LONG JOHN SILVER 10063.  The other ten least 
popular fighters were JOPAR 10023, DUNCAN 10058, AZNA 10067, NOTHING 10039, SYMGARA 
10056, KORLAN 10077, TONARION 10024, CHEESE 10074, ELYTRA 10025, and LUTHIEN 10059.

                                CHALLENGES AND AVOIDS

To clarify:  You issue Challenges to warriors, but Avoid teams.  
To Challenge, write that warrior's name and ID# in the space provided. 
To Avoid, write the team's name and Team ID in that space. 
Make sure you include the ID!

                                      A REMINDER

     On behalf of the mailroom slaves, please, please, put your arena number on 
everything, including your personals and diplos!  
     All diplos must show the recipient's name, team name, and arena number.  
     Sometimes stuff gets misfiled, delayed, not printed, or not delivered because we 
don't know where it belongs.  Thank you.
                                          -- A lowly mailroom slave

                             * * * * *   MEMO  * * * * *

From:       The Office of Accurate Census Reporting, Gladiatorial Commission
To:         All Managers

In the interest of preserving our natural resources and preventing managerial writer's 
cramp, the census form has been eliminated, effective immediately.  Managers may 
register their warriors' races and/or favorite sayings by simply writing them on a 
separate piece of paper and submitting them to the Commission.  Each warrior may have 
up to 15 favorite sayings.  Each saying must be categorized Jeer, Gloat, Boredom, Ouch, 
Victory and may be up to 70 characters long.  For any questions, please contact the 
Gladiatorial Commission. 

                                   FAXING IN TURNS

     If you fax in your Duelmasters turns, realize that most fax machines have a 
border on the right and left side of the paper where no image is transmitted or 
printed.  When you put your strategy sheet in the fax machine, make sure you allow 
extra room on the right side, especially if you are challenging that turn.  When the 
ID# of the warrior you are challenging is cut off, we are unable to enter the 
challenges.  There are four possible solutions to this problem:  

    1)  Load the strategies farther to the left, so the Duelmasters dude is cut off, 
        rather than your challenges, 
    2)  Write the ID# of the warrior you're challenging in the space for the name, 
    3)  Load the strategies long-wise (but then you have to be careful about 
        overlapping the sheets, which can also cut off the ID#s), or 
    4)  Face the fact that you won't get all of your challenges through.  

We'd prefer solutions 1-3, but it's your choice. 
     Also, please be careful that your fax machine isn't transmitting too darkly or
lightly.  If you write your turn in pencil, some fax machines will transmit the 
pencil so lightly we can't read it when it gets here.  If your fax machine can make
copies, it's a good idea to try making a copy first to make sure it's readable, adjust
the darkness if you need to, and then fax it to us.  Be especially wary of the 
Advanced Duelmasters Strategy Sheets, because if your fax machine sends the grey 
shading too darkly, we won't be able to read those lines at all.
     Good luck!

                                          -- Green Eyes

                              STRENGTH AND WEAPON DAMAGE

                                      by Pagan

     Weapon damage is equated to Strength + damage class.  Damage Class is 
categorized by Size.  So damage seems to be done like this:
     1.  Armor weight + 12 + any bonus it has vs weapon type is a negative to the 
damage done.  
     2.  Damage done is strength + damage class variable + weapon variable.
     3.  Slashing, Bashing, & Lunging  increase the damage done.
     4.  When the damage done equals 1 or less then there is a weapon bounce 
statement.  The minimum damage a blow can do, if it does not bounce, is 1 point of 
damage.  The program knows there's a hit before it knows damage, so it can't reverse 
a hit, you merely take one point of damage because the weapon bounced off the armor.
     5.  The lower your strength, the more bounces you will see.  The lower your 
damage class, the more bounces you will see.  The lighter weight a weapon is vs the 
armor it's hitting, the more bounces you will see.
     6.  In reverse to #5, all of those secondary-damage statements (often referred 
to as extra-damage statements), such as "it was a devastating blow"... "what a 
massive blow" -- these merely show that you hit your opponent with enough damage to 
exceed the computer secondary-damage statement threshold.  Your warrior caused enough 
damage to exceed a programmed set number (whatever that number may be) and the fight 
is only showing that you exceeded that number.  The programmed number for the 
secondary-damage threshold is a hard number: it is constant within the program and is 
used for all fights and all warriors.  It is not random, simply because it cannot be 
random and keep any consistency with the Damage-Classes.  It has nothing to do with 
how much damage you did in relation to your opponent's hit-points, either.  If you 
exceed that hard number in damage, you get a printed statement showing that to be the 
case.  There is no such thing as Extra Damage.

Pagan

                        TEAM AND CHARACTER MAINTENANCE SERVICE

     As a service to all managers, we offer team and character maintenance.  This 
option allows you to make sure your team or selected warriors will never miss a turn!

     Team Maintenance:  This will cause all warriors on that team to fight every 
     turn; if it's an AD arena, any new warriors who arrive on that team will 
     fight the turn they arrive.  In A.D. or in transfer arenas where you have 
     multiple teams, each team will need to separately be on Team Maintenance.  
     (The only exception is new warriors; they will not fight until they have had 
     their initial strategy input.)  

     Character Maintenance:  This will cause only that warrior to fight every 
     turn.  If the character graduates or changes arenas, he/she/it will stay on 
     Character Maintenance.

     In either case, you may submit strategy sheets for your warriors each turn, if 
you wish.  The Team/Character Maintenance will make sure your warriors fight each 
turn, and they will always use their most recently entered strategy.
     Remember that challenges, avoids, and challenge/if challenged strategies will not 
carry through from turn to turn.  These sections are only used on the turn they are 
entered.  In order to continually challenge or avoid you will need to submit a 
strategy sheet each time. 
     One other thing to remember about maintenance:  Maintenance is not something 
that you write on your turnsheet (like in demo tourneys).  In order to add or remove 
maintenance for a team or warrior, you must send a note to Customer Service.  If you 
just write things like this on your strategy sheet, they may or may not get done.  
Likewise, don't write it on your personal ads.  Please, please, please put it on a 
separate piece of paper with "Customer Service" written on the top.  If you don't, 
well, you can imagine.
     Thanks for your time.  Good luck in Duelmasters! -- Green Eyes

                                  The Perfect Scout

     We all know them.  We all hate them.  What am I talking about?  Scum.  But there 
is nothing better than a scum to scout at your enemy's weak points.  You can see if 
they'll last long, what weapons they use, where they attack, their style, etc.  And 
you typically don't have to fear a loss.  Picture this.  You see a guy on the listing 
10-5-2.  Well, you don't want to send your best warrior with his perfect 5-0-1 because 
you want to keep winning.  So you send in your scout.  Now you know if you can beat 
him.  The scout will enable you to better pick and choose your fights.  Also if you 
feel like getting back at someone these scum are great.

How to design:

ST13+ can go as low as 11
CN17+
WT5-7 no more
WL17+
SP3 as low as possible
DF7 is perfect

     So a perfect set up would be 15-19-13-7-19-3-8 to start train CN till 21 then WL 
21 WT 8 DX 9 then whatever you want.  This guy is not for ADM he's just for regular DM 
and to be used to scout.  Don't worry about skills until you've 3 raises in everything 
then go to skills.  Oh yeah strategy.

1-1-1-1-1-1-1
1-1-1-1-1-1-1
1-1-1-1-1-1-1
HE---------HE
BD---------BD
Parry-------P

     Get rid of him when they get up high.  Then they've already scouted everything.

                                   Brought to you by Mr. Drake DM#5, Mgr. of Pirates

                             THE BRAINY, LOW WILL STRIKER

     Like many others, I have experimented with the striker style, though I waited 
nearly two years into playing this game before doing so.  Recently, while preparing 
for a tournament, I was reviewing the many roll-up sheets I had ordered in hopes that 
I might find a warrior or two who might have a good chance at a TV, or even a TC 
prize.  Most of the roll-ups were born losers, or mediocre warriors at best, so I 
decided to experiment with the striker style.
     Most managers will agree that in order for a warrior to have a long-term 
potential (Primus), you need a will of at least 15.  I wouldn't know, never having 
gotten a warrior that far.  However, not all roll-ups will give you the opportunity 
for a 15+ WT/WL/DF combo.  With that in mind, I made a few high WT, high DF, low WL 
strikers and hoped for the best.  I was relying on their superior decise to get in the 
first blow, and hoping to finish off the opposition before they had a chance to swing 
back.  Before you mega-managers say it, yes these guys would have made good, albeit 
extremely fragile aimed blows with the stats such as the following.  I know, I had one 
with similar stats TV at the same tournament with a 9-1-0 record.  However, I am 
writing about the low-will striker, not aimed blows.

The result:

11-12-10-19-9-6-17   &   9-12-12-19-7-4-21

     These guys have absolutely no realistic long-term potential once past basic, 
assuming they live that long (that single digit will is a killer).  However, #1 
managed to go 8-2-1 in the tournament, picking up an impressive 18 skill sin the 
process.  he also managed to take out all 4 TP scum he faced, going 9 minutes in one 
fight, and 5 in another (his overview claimed "poor endurance").  #2 started with very 
"little endurance," yet managed to last 8 minutes vs. a TP-ratings, and had no problem 
sending those pesky TP-scum desperate before the end of the first minute.
     Give your striker a scimitar and let him go out 10-10-7 decise.  With the high-
decise style advantage strikers get, he should get in the first, and hopefully last, 
blow.  Slow him down to about 6-4-6 minute 2, then go 6-1-1 thereafter.  He'll either 
have won or lost by the end of the 3rd minute vs. most opponents.  Have him come out 
at 6-4-6 (min 1), 6-2-6 (min 2), and 6-1-6 (min 3+) vs. TP-scum.  I aim for the legs 
(I don't know of anybody who protects the legs, especially at tournaments), though if 
you want to go for the kills, aim for the head.
     Will these kind of rollups TV every time?  NO!  Their problem is a distinct 
aversion to pain, one blow will usually do them in.  It is, however, a far better way 
of enjoying those frustrating low WL warriors than simply writing DA on the strategy 
sheet.
     If you are really gutsy, run these guys in the arena.  They are a sure bet to be 
killed before their 15th fight, but will probably have a winning record when they die.
     Comments, derision and just about anything else welcome.

                                             Diplo Blind Man, Red Branch (3)

                   AND NOW, FOR SOMETHING COMPLETELY DIFFERENT. . .

     Are you tired of all the articles on the so-called Un-scum TPs and kill-at-will 
strikers?  While I always appreciate input from more experienced managers, it seems 
some of the best styles are completely passed over when the articles come out in the 
last couple pages of the newsletters.  In this case, the lunger.  In the first ten 
fights of my arena, lungers held an average of 55% wins, and had a kill rate second to 
strikers, tying with bashers (if killing is your goal).  Experienced managers agree, 
starting with offensive styles benefits newbies, because they tend to be a little 
easier to run and more consistent at lower levels play.
     In way of disclaimer, I'm by no means a mega-manager.  I've been at this for a 
little over two years, and don't have a record that you'd write home about.  This is 
because I do a lot of experimenting, DAing even a good fighter, just to try something 
new.  Though I haven't run a lot of lungers, I have learned that they tend to do best 
with a fairly even spread of stats.
     ST:  Usually somewhere between 9-13,  13 is nice because it lets you use the long 
spear (an obviously superior lunging weapon), but 9 or 11 can free up the points for 
other stats, if need be.
     CN:  While everyone will tell you to never put points here, this is a style 
which, like the TP, can benefit from decent constitution.  Try not to go any lower 
than 9, with something in the 13 range preferably.  Given you can train this without 
skill loss, a 10 works all right, though you're going to have to finish your foes in 
the first minute.
     SZ:  9 is all you need for any of the weapons, but it seems hard to get a good 
damage rating with anything under a 12.
     WT:  I've gotten some good bases with as low as a 12, and a 17 didn't seem to 
improve them appreciably.  15's seem to do pretty fair.  Granted, given the quickness 
of their fights--if they're run right--they may take a little while to develop.
     WL:  As with con, you're going to need that drive and endurance.  A 12 con, 12 
will gives normal endurance, and even will as high as 17 doesn't seem to give them all 
that much more stamina, so again, I'd say in the range of 15.
     SP:  I'm an advocate of the low speed school, overall, and I've had them as low 
as a 7 with some decent response, but an 11+ is better, and they make use of speed 
better than most, given wit and deftness to use it.
     DF:  Again, 11+,  I've heard that lungers favor the legs as a target, so you need 
to be able to hit a reasonably small, mobile target.
     The really nice thing about lungers is their spread of skill bases.  I've had 
four decent lungers, who ran in the .500 range, and probably could have done a lot 
better if I'd pegged their rhythm.  My best overall spread of skills came from a 13-
10-9-15-15-11-11, with 50% in initiative and attack, 30% parry, 35% defense and 20% 
riposte.  I've had them go as high as 60% in riposte (9-15-8-15-13-11-13), but with no 
parry, it was sort of useless.
     As one of the highest endurance burns in the game, obviously, the strategy is the 
key, and the one place I must admit lacking.  I know the armor can make a big 
difference for them, so you want to go as low as possible, naked if you think you can 
get away with it.  Like a striker, you really don't want to get hit at all.  I usually 
run them hi-hi-mod (with exception of some of my defensives, I always run a 5-8 KD).  
Unlike strikers and bashers, they don't seem to respond as well to the hi-lo-hi in the 
later part of the fight.  The weapons for a lunger are pretty obvious; epee, 
longsword, short spear, or long spear.  If you build one with less strength and con, 
you can boost the speed and deftness enough to make the epee standards, but given my 
experience with their damage ratings, I'd advise against it.  As I noted in the 
beginning, an even spread seems to work well, and one of my first ever was 13-12-12-
12-12-12-11, with 65% ini, 35% att, 15% rip, 15% def.  No godling, by any means, but 
could do some wicked things with that longspear, and very nearly won his DA match.
     Again, I make no claims as being a great manager, only one with a lot of time on 
his hands, and one who saw a notable lack of info on what I consider to be one of the 
best potential styles in the game.  Their flashy style can lead to great gains in the 
popularity and recognition, and their well spread skills can probably lead to great 
things in development.  I would greatly welcome any form of questions, comments or 
complaints, and particularly other managers experience with this--or for that matter 
any other--style.  Good fighting.

Elder Snorri
The Aesir (22)
Miroi Chang (DM 79)

       >)]H[(< + -----:----- + >)] Getting the Jump [(< + -----:----- +>)]H[(<

     One of the most common questions that new players ask is what they can do to 
defeat a certain warrior from another team who always attacks first and beats their 
own warrior before he can get an attack in.  Attacking first in a fight is called 
"jumping" your opponent, and it decides the victor in a majority of fights between 
two offensive warriors.  By offensive, I mean Strikers, Bashers, Lungers, Slashers, 
and Aimed Blows, although any style can be run offensively.
     In this article, I will teach some of the more common things you can do to make 
your warrior get the jump.

Part 1, the setup:  To design a fast warrior, you must take into account Decisiveness 
skills.  Decise is gained from only three statistics: Wit, Will, and Speed.  Of these 
three, Speed is the only stat that has a large number of Decise skills in it.  So if 
you design a rollup with a high Speed stat and/or a high Wit and Will, it will be 
fast.
     Styles are also an important consideration.  Strikers, Bashers, and Aimed Blows 
start with more Decise skills than any other style.  Slashers and Lungers have 
slightly less, followed by Parry-Strike, Parry-Lunge, and Wall of Steel.  Total 
Parries and Parry-Ripostes have very low starting Decise scores.
     Each style also learns Decise skills at different speeds.  Strikers learn Decise 
the fastest. Parry-Strikes also learn it quickly, and Bashers learn it reasonably 
well.  The other styles fall into the "don't count on learning it unless it's your 
favorite learn" category.

Part 2, the strategy:  What you put on your strategy sheet drastically affects your 
chances of getting the jump.
     Offensive effort:  As high as possible (10).  The more your warrior tries to 
attack, the more likely he is to take the first opportunity offered him.
     Activity level:  As high as possible (10).  The more your warrior moves around, 
the more chances he will see to attack.
     Note that running at these levels will tire your warrior out very quickly, and 
your warrior may not fight at his best.  Most styles prefer a much lower activity 
level as their "favorite".  But this article is about getting the jump, not fighting 
efficiently.  :)
     Kill Desire:  Kill desire is one of the most intangible factors in Duelmasters, 
but one of the common theories is that each number of KD corresponds to a certain 
skill, maximizing that skill.  Seven is supposed to be the magic number for 
Decisiveness.  Try it and see if it works for you.
     Tactics:  Obviously, the Decisiveness (D) tactic increases your Decise.  Other 
tactics may increase your Decise, like the Bash tactic, but they don't increase it as 
much as Decisiveness does.
     Armor:  None.  Nada.  Zilch.  Armor weighs you down.  Even if you have the 
ability to carry a large load, you will still be faster running naked.  Of course, 
you will take much more damage if you get hit, so you'd better make sure you can put 
your opponent down before he hits you back.  With this strategy, you either win big or 
you die.
     Faster weapons:  Lighter weapons are faster than heavier ones, but there are 
certain weapons that are considered to be "faster" in general.  Warhammer and Hatchet 
are some of the best.  Dagger and Bare Fist (FI) are probably the fastest, but 
fighting bare-handed is dangerous.

So you've designed your warrior, probably a Striker or Basher with a good speed, wit, 
and will.  You're running him 10-10-7 Decise with no armor and a Warhammer.  And that 
same enemy warrior *still* outjumps you.  If that's the case, he's probably running a 
similar strategy and just has more Decise skills than you.  So you have one more 
trick up your sleeve:  the Responsiveness tactic ('S' in the defensive tactics 
section).  If your opponent is using Decise and you use Response, you will probably 
win.  If your opponent is not using Decise, you will probably lose.  It's like a 
rock-scissors-paper relationship:
     Decise beats no tactic; no tactic beats Response; Response beats Decise.

There are some other minor factors in getting the jump that are beyond the scope of 
this article.  Hopefully this will give you a better idea of how the warrior who 
attacks first in a fight gets chosen.

Captain K., manager of Men of the Sea in DM 12 and assorted others

                                  WARRIOR HANDEDNESS

                                      by Pagan

     There has always been something FISHY about ambidextrous warriors and what hand 
they hold their weapons in.  If you ask anyone but me, most will tell you the same 
old line about Ambi's holding their weapons in their left & sometimes in their right.  
WRONG....  The computer program does something weird here, and I will explain in the 
program format:

     FIGHTER1 is right-handed
        primary hand = WEAPONA

     FIGHTER2 is ambidextrous
        primary hand = Epee
        off-hand = Dagger
        back-up = Epee

1.  FIGHTER1 swings WEAPONA
2.  various computations for attack, parry, defense...
3.  FIGHTER1 hits/misses (let's say he hits)
4.  computations for attack area/protect area (hit or parry or save)
5.  selection of attack area or impossible parry save or random area
6.  FIGHTER2 is struck on LEFT ARM
7.  selection on warrior file for handedness then correlate with weapon carried;
    RE_ROUTE --> If ambidextrous select handedness
8.  check for fail at hit-points level vs. damage done
9.  FIGHTER2 drops his Epee

{at this point you'll never notice much difference.  You may even think that the 
computer at this time, or at the beginning of the fight, designates the weapon side 
an ambi warrior is carrying.  But you'd be wrong.)

10.  check for initiative, if yes then check for back-up
11.  if no on initiative then continue (current offensive warrior continues
     offensive), if yes then offensive is broken RE_ROUTE to advantage computations
12.  FIGHTER2 spins and pulls out his Epee

{so FIGHTER2 should have his Epee is which hand?...his left}

13.  advantage computations judge who takes offensive
14.  FIGHTER1 swings WEAPONA with devastating force!

{now this will look familiar because it always the same system, the program doesn't 
change, just the numbers do}

15.  various computations for attack, parry, defense...
16.  FIGHTER1 hits/misses (let's say he hits)
17.  computations for attack area/protect area (hit or parry or save)
18.  selection of attack area or impossible parry save or random area
19.  FIGHTER2 is struck on LEFT ARM
20.  selection on warrior file for handedness then correlate with weapon carried;
     RE_ROUTE --> If ambidextrous select handedness
21.  check for fail at hit-points level vs. damage done
22.  FIGHTER2 drops his DAGGER

{wasn't that Dagger in his right hand?...guess not.}

     ...and so on, and so forth....  You'll notice that the program never chooses a 
weapon side until necessary.  This has a few ramifications:  hit points in specific 
areas, selective attacking based on warrior body positioning, and a few other things.
     This is true because I have PROOF.  Eventually you will get fights that this 
will happen to.  BUT IT AIN'T EASY.  It was just luck that I got the hardcopy to show 
it to me.  You may notice that your ambi warriors, if they drop their weapons (and 
every warrior eventually does), that eventually you will have two different fights 
where your guy got hit in the same arm and dropped two different weapons.  It wasn't 
until I got lucky and it happened to me twice in one fight (yes I lost the fight!) 
getting hit in one arm and dropping two different weapons.
     You should begin to see some format here.  The program breakdown is basic, but 
is a close enough approximation for you to get a better feel about what's happening.

					  -- Pagan

                         A BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO DUELMASTERS

                                          or
                          HOW TO KEEP YOUR HEAD ABOVE WATER

     Way back when I first started Duelmasters, I was helped immeasurably by an 
article written by an experienced manager whose name escapes me now.  I regret that 
now, because that article is largely responsible for my current success in 
Duelmasters.  At least, it kept me interested and competitive until I knew enough to 
develop my own strategies and styles.  What I would like to accomplish with this 
article is to give enough advice on the various styles that a beginner can put 
together a decent fighter.  I feel for those managers struggling with a 20 or 30 
percent winning record.  I was once one of you (in Cliffhome).  With that in mind, I 
will briefly discuss each fighting style and my recommendations.  So here goes:

AIMED BLOW:    I've never designed one, so if you're set on having one, I'm not going 
to be much help to you.  A setup for a good AB will produce a GREAT PR.  But if you 
still want one, try something like this: 11-9-9-17-15-6-17.  You need wit and deftness 
and the 11 strength will give you a longsword or quarterstaff.  Great against TP.

BASHER:  A pretty good style for the beginner, and easy to produce.  Bashers come in a 
variety of shapes and sizes, from the small, fast type to the dreaded "scum basher."  
You need ST of 13 for a WH.  It's the best basher weapon.  The more speed he has, the 
less constitution he needs.  ST & SZ should equal about 25.  Example:  15-7-10-17-13-
11-11 or 15-17-10-13-17-5-7.

LUNGER:   Good choice for the beginner.  Many people make lungers too small.  At least 
SZ 9 so he can use a LS vs. heavy armor.  Try high WL and SP and if you have the 
deftness, try a LO.  Don't worry too much about CN.  Run 10-10-10 to start.  Use only 
one weapon.  Ex:  13-5-12-15-15-17-7.

PARRY-LUNGE:   My favorite style.  Try 11-10-12-16-16-6-13, increase WT & WL to 17.  
Run 3-3-3 first minute, then more offense and activity after that.  Be patient with 
the parry types.  It takes time to develop their skills, but once you do, they are the 
best and most entertaining designs.  Use LO/DA and light armor.

PARRY-STRIKE:  Set up similar to PL, but may have more ST for heavier weapons.  Could 
also use more CN.  He can use a variety of weapons well.  Ex:  13-13-9-16-15-5-13.

PARRY-RIPOSTE:  Arguably the best style once fully developed.  WT and DF should be 17 
with one or two stat raises.  ST of 9 okay, but 11 better (it give you LO against 
heavier armor).  Size should be small, although I was once successful with a size 14 
PR.  PR needs a fair amount of CN.  Ex:  9-15-5-17-15-6-17.

SLASHER:  I haven't been too successful with these, but some people have been.  They 
need to be able to take a few hits, so keep CN around 10.  ST of 13 gives you a GA 
against heavy armor.  Keep size down.  Ex:  13-10-6-16-11-11-14.

STRIKER:  There are two basic styles of striker:  High speed and deftness and enough 
strength to handle weapons of choice, and large strikers with low SP and DF.  
Regardless, keep the WT high and CN low.  They are naturally decisive, so take 
advantage of that.  Use only one weapon at a time.  Ex:  13-5-13-17-15-15-9 or 13-7-
17-15-17-7-7.

TOTAL PARRY:  Some TPs are carelessly made, figuring that it isn't really a skillful 
type, but those fighters don't last long and they're boring!  A good design for a TP 
is 13-13-8-17-15-5-13.  This would also make a very good PS or PL!  Run 3-3-3 P for a 
couple of minutes, then 4-3-4 or 5-3-5 for a minute or two.  A good choice of weapons 
is SH/ME; ACM/H.  You can get by with less WT or ST and he can be larger, but keep CN, 
WL, and DF fairly high.  You will be insulted, because some styles just can't last for 
more than a minute or two.  But this is your real strength.

WALL OF STEEL:  A good style.  ST & CN & WL should equal 45 or so.  I like at least 
size 9 so he can use a QS.  SP isn't really important.  Run defensively for a minute 
or two, then offensively after that.  Ex:  15-12-9-13-17-5-13.

GENERAL NOTE:  Often, the specific stat levels will depend more upon your weapon 
choice than it will your fighter's style.  If you want to use a great axe, you will 
need a ST of 13 and DF of 11.  Lungers using SS or LS need ST of 11.  LO needs WT and 
DF.  A WH needs ST of 13 but only a DF of 7.  Some weapons require a size 9 fighter.  
So, when designing your fighter, think about the weapon you want him to use before you 
finalize your selections.  Also, remember that you can raise each stat (except size) 
two points without too much trouble (unless your WL is very low) while you're fighting 
in the arena.  Be patient with your fighter and develop him gradually.  Few great 
fighters start out that way!  Good luck in the arena!

                                   Fritz of Battle Pets (225)
                                        Solven -- 22

                                      ENDURANCE

                          by Tankesh/Adie (DM11, Aruak City)

DETERMINATION
     This attribute of a warrior found on the overview determines how long a warrior 
can keep up their offense, defense, or just keep standing.  All styles use the same 
physical stats and the computer determines their endurance the same way, using those 
stats as a base.  But the actual endurance of a warrior can vary up or down from that 
base depending on luck (good or bad).  Like skills, each warrior can be gifted, mode, 
or hosed in their starting endurance, and that giftedness or penalty seems to stick 
with them permanently.  Possible endurance levels, from lowest to highest are:  very 
little, poor, normal (no comment), good, great, tremendous, awesome.
     Endurance can also be raised, in order of importance, with WL, ST and CN trains.  
After training endurance to a warrior's first new level, I find it usually takes about 
6 total trains, on average, to get to the next level of endurance.  If a warrior is 
gifted, as training continues, that higher level of endurance appears to stick with 
them.  It would be difficult to list numerous data points here to give you a better 
feel for what endurance to expect in your new warrior, but if you want more data, try 
this web site and look at the chart:

                     http://www.bit-net.com/~johnh/calc.cgi?end

ENDURANCE BURN
     How fast endurance is used depends on the style of a warrior, their activity 
level, their offensive effort, and armor/weapons carried.
     1) Burn rate by style -- This is tricky to tell as nobody runs all styles with 
the same strategy and armor regularly.  But here is an approximate rate of burn by 
style from highest to lowest, in my humble opinion:
                   LU - WS - SL - BA - PL - ST - PS - AB - PS - TP 
     Personally, I find the last five extremely difficult to separate, but usually the 
more active styles burn faster due to faster strategies and more offensive skills, so 
I tried to put them in order of the most active, typically.  There are numerous 
exceptions of course.
     2) Activity Level -- Warriors running at higher levels of activity burn endurance 
faster no matter their style, period.  It may be that running on a warrior's favorite 
rhythms allows said warrior to continue at that level longer than otherwise.  When a 
warrior gets tired, a strategy with a higher activity level will inhibit them from 
recovering their endurance as they will try to keep moving.
     3) Offensive Effort -- The more a warrior swings, the more tired they get.  Of 
course, if your OE is high, but the other guy is doing all the swinging because they 
have the initiative, you aren't burning as much endurance.  Endurance recovery is also 
inhibited if offensive effort is kept up when a warrior is tired.
     4) Weapons/Armor Carried -- The more one carries, the faster a warrior gets tired 
carrying it.  Easy.

EXHAUSTION
     Warriors who are exhausted or tired will see lines in the fight reading, 'no 
longer has the endurance to put up much of a defense', or 'staggers with exhaustion'.  
You will see the former line if your warrior is exhausted and is attacked.  Such 
warriors are easier to hit and have a difficult time using their defense and parry, 
which are penalized or even non-existent while they rest and try to recover their 
endurance.

ENDURANCE RECOVERY
     Over the course of a fight, warriors who become tired will often 'fade back, 
snatching a much needed moment of rest' or some other similar action.  This is 
basically a breather for the warrior to try and recover some endurance so they can 
keep fighting.  Kind of like a climber pausing briefly to catch his breath and recoup.  
If the warrior is not defeated while recovering, they will continue eventually, or try 
to.  For high burn styles, the very thought of continuing often makes them fade back 
again and they may stand around for a while if not hacked down.  They may also leap 
about continuously, holding onto the initiative, but lack the endurance to actually 
swing!  Very low activity and offensive effort allows easier recovery than even 
moderate strategies by telling your warrior to effectively give up the initiative and 
chill.  Of course, you run the risk of getting attacked while standing there.  Low 
burn styles can actually, if running slow enough (i.e., never attacking!), stand 
around and recover their endurance almost as fast as they lose it, making REALLY long 
fights possible between two such warriors.

WILL CHECKS
     Lastly, related to endurance, are "Will Checks".  When a warrior is exhausted, 
this check is performed by the program to decide if the warrior wants to go on for 
just a bit longer, to hang in there.  It occurs often in longer fights, especially 
with the Total Parry style, which often wins by exhausting their opponents.  A failed 
will check results in the warrior collapsing from exhaustion.  A successful check 
allows an exhausted warrior to continue and try to recover more endurance.  
Additionally, will checks determine whether a warrior surrenders, usually due to being 
wounded.  A will check is determined by just that, WILL.  If your warrior has a low 
will, they will surrender or collapse more often than those with a high will.
     Lastly, kill desire affects will checks.  A low kill desire will make it more 
likely that a warrior will fail his will check and surrender, therefore live.  A 
higher kill desire makes the warrior more willing to gut it out and fight to the end, 
helping his will checks succeed.  This may cause warriors to get killed more easily, 
unless they win.  This kind of death is due to a warrior who refuses to surrender, 
giving their opponent more chances to try and kill them, or due to increased trauma 
from more hits to a specific body location that can result in an infirmary death.

                       An Unbiased Look at the Slashing Attack

                                       Really.

     Slashers are coming out big this season, and as it's a style that I think 
requires a lot of study, I'd like to share my learnings and observations with those of 
you interested in this excellent offensive style.
     Too often I've heard experienced managers shrug off the slasher out of hand--why?  
Because they've never succeeded with the style themselves, and as such, hardly 
consider it worth noting.  However, it's a style that's sneaking a lot into the 
limelight these days.
     General design:
     ST:  11-17--I would go as low as 7 or 9 depending on the warrior's size; I do 
like at least a 9 for use of the scimitar.  It's nice to get them to at least normal 
damage, good, or better, because if they can't inflict any damage, they're going to be 
in trouble.
     CN:  any--I like to give them some CN just so they can take a hit or two, but 
it's not necessary.  I have a couple of slashers who started with a 4 CN and made it 
to AD; bear in mind, however, that a slasher with a good design is as mortal as an 
aimed blow, and you can expect to lose them just as you've become attached to them.
     SZ:  5-11--NO BIGGER.  I don't know why, but big slashers just don't seem to make 
it.  However, I am flexible here, and I'm currently attempting an experiment with 
gigantic slashers.  If it works, I'll update this.  As of right now, I'll stick with 
the smaller ones.  Another good reason to have a good strength.
     WT: 17-21--As with any style, the higher the better.   I've had some success with 
WTs in the 13-17 range, and even 11, but I don't expect him to ever be Primus level.  
If you can get 17 or 21, then do so.
     WL: 11-21--Again, as with WT.  A slasher with a good endurance will shock the 
hell out of a scum TP who goes out sure that a slasher is easily scummed--not so.  17 
is a good number; if possible, go with it.
     SP:  5-9--If someone tells you that a slasher needs speed, DO NOT LISTEN to them.  
It's hooey.  A slasher already gets a speed and init bonus, they don't need any more 
help, and in the long run it will greatly hinder them.  A high-speed slasher will end 
up Init-heavy with absolutely no other skills (and it's really frustrating to have a 
fast little slasher who already has a Master Init and still isn't learning any other 
skills)--there's nothing to 'em.  You want him well-rounded, then you keep that SP 
low; that's the major drawback to the slasher (or any pure offense style), and I 
believe it's the main thing that's kept them from being more greatly respected.
     DF: 13-21--Here's where you make or break 'em.  A good deftness makes up for the 
decise that might be lost in a low speed, and decise is more important than init.  Any 
good aimed blow will also be an excellent slasher (and, to avoid the inevitable snorts 
of derision, yes, they'd be a better anything else.  But I'm talking about slashers).

     A good, generally perfect slasher looks so: 7-9-5-21-18-11-13 (it's not 
ABSOLUTELY perfect, mind you; if I was designing him today I'd probably have gone with 
a 17 WL and 8 ST).  These are the stats of what is perhaps my best all around slasher, 
skill-wise.  This rollup started with these bases:
          INIT:          90%
          RIP:           60%
          ATT:           70%
          PAR:           15%
          DEF:           65%
          DEC:           55%

     As you can see, this slasher got lucky--more, perhaps, than some would, 
especially in the defense area.  Some slashers will be frustratingly low in defense.  
Despite this skill base, he also started doing LITTLE damage--with this kind of 
problem, I definitely advocate raising ST to get rid of it.  It WILL hurt his record, 
and, with my newest Stat/Skill chart, I see that raising from 7 to 10 hasn't hurt this 
slasher's learning at all, and now he does GOOD damage.
     Of course, not all of my slashers have been this good skill wise.  Often they do 
start with desperately frustratingly low parry/defense skills, therefore needing 
nothing more than to get that first hit.  Many slashers, especially the high ST/WT/DF 
combo ones, need to get the first hit--'cause if they get hit first, it's all over.
     One of my favorite designs looks like this: 13-13-6-17-15-7-13.  This slasher has 
been desperately unlucky in skills, favorites, and definitely so record-wise.  I can 
also attribute my lackadaisical managerial style to his lack of success, because I 
believe the numbers to be good.
     Be that as it may, the slasher I've had the best success with looked like this: 
10-14-9-18-16-8-9.  He started with a negative 10% parry, and only a 20% defense.  For 
those wishing to snigger at me, this is Billy the Kid.  He doesn't look like this now, 
of course; he has a 47-29-2 record with several stat raises and three Advanced 
Masters.  So it's up in the air, for me, as to whether a really awesome design or just 
dumb luck is what attributes to one's managerial success.
     But that's neither here nor there.  Once you HAVE your design, you want to know 
how to run them.  I've heard some say that weapons selection is limited with slashers.  
Sure.  Limited to the BEST WEAPONS IN THE GAME.  A slasher can use hatchets (don't 
laugh!  My slashers can do devastating things with hatchets), scimitar, broadsword, 
battle axe, longsword, epee, or shortsword.  The scimitar is the weapon I advocate as 
the best all around, but always try others.  Every slasher has their own ideas and 
some are pretty picky about it.  I don't recommend using the epee in regular DM even 
if you have the stats for it, unless you use it only against armor classes 0-4 or so.
     Armor: I dress them heavy, but mostly because I like them to LIVE.  A slasher is 
generally so quick that even as heavy as scalemail won't slow them down once they have 
that expert Decise (and often before).  But in order to please those who think 
excessive armor is scummy, you can drop them down to ALE/L.  Go without armor only if 
you're sure you can get the first swing and drop your opponent with that first hit or 
it's a super scum who WON'T hit you.  Otherwise, if you want to live, I recommend some 
armor.  But each manager can use this advice as they will.
     Strategies:  Early on, I run them fairly hard, 10-10-6 in minute one, dropping to 
8-4-6 in minute two, and then to 6-1-5(6) thereafter.  Some slashers are a little 
strange in that they don't mind an "inverted strategy," that is, a higher defensive 
effort (activity level) than offensive, i.e.: 8-10 or 6-8.  The 6-1-6 usually means 
that they can last a good long time against parry styles, and usually come out on top.  
The styles to watch out for are high-kill, high-decise strikers and killer lungers.  
Most slashers can and will get the jump on lungers, but the strikers are tougher; both 
CAN be beaten.  With a little clever fiddling, the good slasher can beat ALL styles.  
But watch out for him while he's still young.
     Tactics:  Not necessary.  The slash is nice, if they like it, but it CAN slow 
them down.  Decise is better if you want to be first off the mark or they appear 
hesitant in the first minute, but only in minute one OR desperation (but not both).  
Use response against strikers using decise.
     Important Note:  It is absolutely NOT TRUE that your OE and KD have to be the 
same number in order for a defensive to be effective.  I don't buy it.  A 10 OE and a 
7 KD will get you the results you want, and with the correct strategy, you can be as 
much a killer, or not, as you desire without going berserk at a 10 KD.  Trust me on 
this one! :)
     And that's about it.  If you have any comments, criticisms, complaints, new 
ideas, different ideas, etc., you can contact me via:

                                                  Tex's Rangers (20, 51, 105, 104)
                                                  Texas Independence Co (57, 105)

                                                                      -- Tex

                         PRIORITY SKILL LEARNING -- by Pagan

     There are specific facts you should know about skills.  To begin with, there are 
six skill areas.  Three are offensive (attack, initiative, decisiveness) and three are 
defensive (parry, riposte, defense); they define, together with your stats, the 
abilities of your warrior in these areas.  You should already know the implications 
that skills have upon your warrior's roll-up, but now I want to talk about how 
learning additional skills relates to your warrior's potential.
     Each warrior has a favorite skill learn, that is to say, a warrior will learn a 
particular skill more often than any others.  Generally speaking, the skills a warrior 
learns most often are heavily influenced by his fighting style, which is called 
Priority.  I will talk about priority a little later, but in general, it is the 
likelihood that a style is to learn a skill category.  For example, Total Parries 
learn parry and defense more often than they learn decise or initiative.
     Your warrior's favorite learn affects the priority of his skill learning.  A 
favorite learn is only limited by the six possible learns allowable, so you may have a 
Total Parry with a favorite learn of initiative or a Slasher with a favorite learn of 
defense.  In any event, by your twentieth learn you should have an idea as to what his 
favorite learn is, because of the disproportionate amount of skills learned within one 
category.  Also, when your fighter is invited to join the ADM arenas, you will be told 
what skill learn your warrior favors.
     A new area that I have been examining in the context of skill learning is the 
impact an opponent's style has on the type of skills learned.  Your warrior's fighting 
style, along with the fighting style of his opponent, has a direct effect on the type 
of skills learned, but does not control the number of skills learned.  When he fights 
a Total Parry, for instance, he is more likely to learn a defensive skill than when he 
fights a Slasher.

PRIORITY
Chart developed by Ben Hitz -- "PUG"
Revised by -- DMobster and Pagan

     The probability of learning a skill is modified by the style.  Each style has a 
learning scope that differs from each other style.  There are Priority skill areas for 
each style that differ amongst each style.  Each skill is given a corresponding number 
from 1 to 6 depending upon its priority.

                               PRIORITY SKILLS BY STYLE

                          AB -- ATT, RIP, DEF, PAR, DEC, INI
                          BA -- ATT, INI, DEC, PAR, RIP, DEF
                          LU -- INI, DEF, RIP, ATT, DEC, PAR
                          PL -- INI, PAR, ATT, DEF, DEC, RIP
                          PS -- PAR, DEC, INI, ATT, DEF, RIP
                          PR -- RIP, PAR, ATT, DEF, INI, DEC
                          ST -- DEC, ATT, INI, RIP, PAR, DEF
                          SL -- INI, ATT, RIP, DEC, PAR, DEF
                          WS -- ATT, INI, PAR, DEF, DEC, RIP
                          TP -- PAR, DEF, RIP, ATT, DEC, INI

     Aimed Blows learn attack the most and initiative the least out of any of the 
skills.  By adding your warrior's Priority skills along with that of your opponent's 
Priority skills, you can come to see the probability your warrior has to learn a 
particular skill.
     The above list for Priority may not be free from error; however, I believe it to 
be an accurate reflection of what the actual priority skills are across the styles.  
Some of the skill areas were so close in number that estimations had to be made about 
which skill was higher in priority to another.

TRAINING SKILLS AND STATS

What happens in a fight with priority skills?  Take a look at a Parry Lunge who fights 
a Slasher.

              Skills    Slasher   Parry Lunge    Total Number of trials
              INI           6            6                  12
              RIP           4            1                   5
              ATT           5            4                   9
              PAR           2            5                   7
              DEF           1            3                   4
              DEC           3            2                   5
              Total        21           21                  42

     Now, here we have the total pool of skills in fights between a Slasher and a 
Parry Lunge.  In this fight (Parry Lunge vs Slasher), it is more likely for a warrior 
to learn, in this order:  INI, ATT, PAR, RIP & DEC, DEF.  By calculating the variables 
we can see the likelihood for either warrior to learn each corresponding skill.  To 
learn initiative, there are 12 possible skills in a pool of 42.  So 12 divided by 42 = 
28.57% chance to learn an initiative skill.  There are only 4 defensive skills in the 
pool, so 4/42 = 9.52% chance to learn a defensive skill.  By looking at the numbers 
you can see that, in this fight, both warriors are more likely to learn initiative 
skills than defensive skills.  Also, by calculating all of the skills your opponents 
learn, you will learn the most common skill your warrior teaches.  This is the same 
process as finding your favorite learn.
     The likelihood your warrior has to learn a skill is a factor of Wit.  Where 
Priority shows you the pool of skills, your Wit determines whether your warrior learns 
the skills or not.  For an example of how this may work--and understand this is only 
theory--the computer seems to keep pulling out skills out of a pool of the two 
combatants' Priority skills.  It then checks your warrior's Wit against a variable to 
see if this skill can be learned or not.  If it cannot be learned, the computer throws 
away the skill and pulls out another.  (Remember that the total pool size then 
decreases, from 42 to 41, so you must then divide accordingly).  The computer rolls a 
random number, affected by a warrior's Wit, to determine the number of skills that 
will be learned up to a maximum of six, and a minimum of zero.  (There will be no 
taking away of a warrior's skills!)  The computer then continues to pull out skills 
out of the priority pool until:

     1. You fail to learn a skill
     2. You reach your maximum allowable number of skills (0 to 6)
     3. The pool of skills is exhausted.

     How then is Priority affected by a warrior's favorite learn?  You need to add 6 
points of Priority to your warrior's favorite skill learn.  This favorite affects only 
your warrior's pooled Priority skills, and does not affect your opponent's pooled 
Priority skills.  Vice versa, your warrior's pooled Priority skills are not affected 
by your opponent's favorite learn.  You can use Priority to find your warrior's 
favorite skill learn, once your warrior has learned 20-30 total skills.  Without 
calculating a favorite, your warrior should learn his base percentage chances with 
Priority:
                  Priority Number   Percent Chance for Priority
                       6                       28.57%
                       5                       23.81%
                       4                       19.10%
                       3                       14.29%
                       2                        9.52%
                       1                        4.76%

     You are adding 6 points of Priority to your favorite skill learn, so after you 
warrior has approximately 20 to 30 total skills, divide the number 6 (the favorite 
Priority) by 27 (the Priority pool +21 & the favorite +6) and this equals = 22.22%.  
So any skill area that is approximately 22.22% higher in skill learning than it should 
be (as listed in the chart above) is your warrior's favorite learn. 

                                          -- Pagan

                                   PARRY-RIPOSTE

                                --the how to and why--

     Greetings, fellow managers.  This article will deal with the design and 
successful running of the parry riposte, henceforth referred to as ripper.  A well 
designed ripper will have both enough offense to satisfy those lunger maniacs, and 
defense to make the most parry-XYZ fanatic happy.  The most gratifying quality of the 
ripper is, of course, his legendary riposte ability.  The trick?  Finding out how to 
make him do just that.  It requires a well-balanced mix of good design, diligent 
studying of his fights, and a sound strategy.  Let's do this step by step:

          DESIGN
          ST: 7-11
          CN: 9 or less
          SZ: 7-9
          WT: 15-21
          WL: 13-17
          SP: 5-13
          DF: 17-21

          EXPLANATION:

     ST:  I like to have an 11 ST for using the longsword, a ripper's best weapon vs. 
the heavy armor.  When designing one, unless the strength was 6 or less, I probably 
wouldn't add.  Why?  He needs points elsewhere more importantly.
     CN:  Never add points.  It's a waste and gets you no skills, which are a highly 
valuable commodity you need.
     SZ:  Smaller IS better.  Why?  Again, you need those almighty points elsewhere 
and who cares if you don't have the initiative?  You'll steal it with your riposte!
     WT:  Honestly, I'd like to never start below 17, but the Rollup Gods make that 
quite hard at times.  Therefore I settle for a rock bottom 15, allowing you to use the 
epee and still learn at a respectable pace.
     WL:  I've run with a 13 will and experienced no ill effects.  As a rule, though, 
if you have extra points and just can't figure out what to do with them... slap them 
on will.  Will is important when considering your warrior's long term potential and 
the ability to raise attributes once skills are maxed out through learning.
     SP:  This and deftness are the two main ingredients for riposte.  Nevertheless, I 
place the importance of speed right above con.  It really isn't necessary and quite 
frankly, I'd never add points to it because you won't have any left once maxing out 
wit, deftness, and will.
     DF:  I place this as the second most important attribute for a ripper.  You need 
to be able to hit where you aim and make your shots count.  When you come up against 
that dreaded TP wearing APA/F & ME/ME, 100 hit points-plus, scumming for all he's 
worth, you have to be able to hit those low hit point areas to win that fight.  The 
arms are my favorite attack location.  I've run up against one of these things and by 
minute 7 he dropped his ME, went desperate and gave up.  If you get a design that 
makes you say, "Wow, this could be a good aimed blow," chances are he'd make one 
helluva ripper.

ARMOR:
     Since the mortality rate of young rippers is alarmingly high, I recommend that 
you never go below ARM/H until that rating in defense and parry come your way.  Once 
that happens, and you'll already be on your way to Advanced Expert riposte by this 
time, if not higher, go ahead and put him in ALE, if you want.  Always keep that helm, 
though!  Never forget that your beginning ripper is going to take some hits, and since 
we hate to waste points on con, we depend on the armor to protect us until our 
defenses come on line.

WEAPONS:
     I've had good luck with the LO/DA combo.  The EP/HA works well, also.  As always, 
though, find his FAVORITE!  Others like going with the small shield as the off-hand 
parrying weapon, but since I've never tried that I can't comment on it.  Experiment, 
that's the only way to find out.

EXAMPLES:
     1) 13-9-7-15-13-8-19
     2) 9-13-8-19-15-5-15
     3) 9-7-7-21-13-6-21

     1) This is actually a warrior.  He is running at 75% and doing quite well.  In 
half his fights he has drawn first blood.  Not only having the initiative, but by 
parrying the blow and counter-striking.
     2) This was a ripper also, until ripper #1 killed him.  Lots of potential.
     3) This would be my "perfect" ripper.

     The Reader's Digest version of design is this:  Wit, deftness, and will, in that 
order.  Remember, when designing a warrior, take into consideration the breakpoints 
and place your points accordingly.

STRATEGY:
     This is a general strategy that has worked wonderfully for me.  No two rippers 
are likely to be the same so this is just a good framework to start with.  A highly 
important detail is to thoroughly read your fights and find out what activity level he 
likes to riposte at.  I have also found that the old standby kill desire of 2 more 
often than not made him pass up attack, via riposte, opportunities left and right.  By 
having it at 5, he increased his counterstrikes considerably.

     3    3    6    6    6    5    3
     4    4    4    4    4    3    5
     5    5    5    5    5    5    2
     LA -------------------------- >
     BD -------------------------- >
     N --------------------------- >
     P    P    N    N    N    N    P

     You will notice that when he goes "offensive" in minute three, I don't force 
anything with a tactic modification.  I've found them to hinder a ripper more than 
help.  Some may laugh at this minute three offensive strategy, but he HAS killed in 
minute three.  Against defensive styled warriors, he looked like an offensive lunatic.  
Against offensive warriors, he ripostes 2-3 times per attack thrown at him.

FINAL NOTES:
     Always remember that a ripper will make a corresponding amount of attacks using 
lower numbers as an offensive warrior going ballistic with high numbers.  Don't push 
your ripper, but slowly move his numbers up and down and find out where HE likes to 
run.  Your warrior overview can give you a clue to this.  Don't worry about him making 
a lot of wild attacks at first, as this is normal for rippers.  They get robbed on 
their attack percentage due to their style, but it will come around in time.
     In closing, if this article can help just one person struggling with the ripping 
style, I'll be happy.  I also encourage feedback, whether it be in agreement or 
constructive criticizing.  I base my conclusions from talking to other managers and my 
own experience, which has been best with rippers.  Good luck to all in the battle 
and....

                                        May the Almighty One guide your blade.
                                   Blackhawk, mgr. Knight Rangers (arena 22)
                                        and Knight Rangers (arena 20)

                                   A service of the
                                BROTHERHOOD OF JUSTICE
                                    ------+------
                                    B     O     J
                                    ^     I     ^
                                  /___\   I   /___\
                                          I
                                         / \

                          There is a Tavern in the Town...

     Finally, after a great deal of research, study, gathering of information, wasting 
time, not to mention hundreds of delicious meals later, I have finally complied enough 
for the first article on Alastari's fine taverns, inns, and other such establishments.
     For the sake of convenience, I started in the northlands, and the Island of the 
Whistling Dragon, where sits the fine city of Aradi.  Aradi simply has too many night 
spots to do them all justice, but certainly the two greatest are Drake's Lodge and the 
Blind Cyclops Inn.  Both have an excellent setting, offer entertainment, lodging, and 
a fine menu.  Drake's menu has a wide selection not only from the northern Andorian 
traditions, but also many more exotic dishes culled from the eastern seaboard, 
Malcorn, and the Karnhorn Empire.  The Blind Cyclops leans more heavily towards the 
west coast cuisine, and some of the spicy dishes from the Aruaki Clanhold can be found 
here.  The seafood at both locations, and generally across town, is excellent.
     Running down the coast into the Aruaki Clanhold itself, the first stop would 
normally be Amen-Tei; however, I jumped over it into the heart of Andoria, first.  
Along the populous Catseye River you'll find the cities of Seam, Aruak and Solven.  In 
Seam, one of the finest places to eat is the Stoned Golem.  The prices are reasonable 
and the cooking excellent.  I recommend the dragon steak highly; fiery seasoning and 
the richest Kati-Tei wine to wash it down with.  Also in Seam you'll find the Frozen 
Arms Inn--a perfect location to go if you particularly enjoy indoor ice skating (on 
the floor).  The temperature is kept at a constant 25 degrees Fahrenheit, but if you 
have a heavy parka, I recommend at least stopping by for a drink of tira--I don't know 
what's in it, and I hate to ask, but it's worth it.
     Seam is also home to the Firedragon Inn and the Final Rest.  Both cater more to 
the hard drinkers rather than the picky eaters.  The Firedragon is more likely to host 
a bar brawl--if you like quiet conversation, I recommend the Final Rest.
     On into Aruak, you'll find the Bulldog Inn, a place for food, drink, gambling, or 
sleeping--whatever you're looking for, you're likely to find it.  The food is tasty 
and the companionship unequaled.
     In Point, you'll discover the Ogre's Crypt.  Run by the same people as the Blind 
Cyclops Inn of Aradi, it offers a similar style of cuisine.  It's been rumored that 
offworld "soft drinks" are also available here, although that is strictly hearsay.  
Enjoyable, always.
     Across the channel in Iaye there rests one of the finest inns in Alastari, the 
Dragon's Blood Inn.  Notable not only for its fine food and excellent selection of 
imported wines and liquors, the Dragon's Blood has one of the most welcoming interiors 
of any inn I've seen.  The large downstairs rooms are divided into a gigantic "common" 
room with a fireplace large enough for five men to stand in--frequently to be found 
there entire sides of beef, slow cooking for the evening's meals.  A "party" room can 
either be closed off from the main room for private gatherings or added to the 
spacious quality.  Smaller rooms are also available.  Also, the Dragon's Blood offers 
the best whiskey I've ever tasted.  Also in Iaye is the Rat's Nest.  Found on the 
northern waterfront, it is mostly a tavern and well known mostly for its taxidermy.  
The walls are a veritable museum of native Alastarian wildlife.  Gambling, drinking, 
and women are the main staples here.
     Back on the mainland, I stopped in Khalhums long enough to listen to the music in 
the Blues Hall--not much on food, but the drinks are generous and well priced, and the 
music unbeatable.  Also in Khalhums is the Black Sheep Inn; it's a large barn-shaped 
building not far from the arena that serves good food (mostly mutton, but it's lean 
and well-cooked) and excellent spirits.
     Going down into the Federation, I found an exciting place in Sunset called 
Wildlife Unlimited--anything you want, you're likely to find it here.  All forms of 
entertainment, any drink imaginable, food from lands all over Alastari and beyond.  
Part of the profits of Wildlife Unlimited goes to the training, research, and 
development of warriors.  Also in Sunset I found the Baba Yaga's Bar and Grill, with 
great beer served in gigantic mugs with large tin plates heaped with filling, tasty 
food.  It's a comfortable, friendly place that I recommend highly to anyone traveling 
down that way.  Across the street is a large casino called Cagliostro's Castle--very 
classy place that caters to the "better class" of gambler.  A very enjoyable evening 
can be had there if you win--the drinks are a bit on the expensive side, but the 
liquor is the best.
     Crossing over to nearby Transel, stop by the Sultan's Tent.  The menu is 
extensive, serving dishes from most of this corner of the world; I highly recommend 
the Nianian Firefish.  The drinks are good, with a big selection to choose from, and 
the entertainment excellent.  The ambiance can't be beat, with a massive firepit sunk 
into the center of the common room; when the fire is out, a stage can be pulled over 
it for more of the entertainment.  I suggest stopping by on the weekends, when the 
fire is lit and the overhead skylight drawn back--quite a sight!  It's made mostly of 
mahogany and marble, and is kept up well.
     In Tricorus, there were several places that caught my eye, but most notable is 
the Blue Dolphin Inn.  The Blue Dolphin is a large establishment reminiscent of the 
Dragon's Blood; comfortable and roomy, with gigantic bay windows looking out at the 
massive Tricoran monument, Three-Horn Mountain.  The food is good, if plain fare, with 
healthy portions at a reasonable price.  Excellent drinks.  Highly recommended.  They 
naturally specialize in Tricorus' delicious gold brandy.
     In Delarq Tor, if you can find it and get in, there is Ho's Pleasure Club.  
"Pleasure" is the operative term.  Fortunately, I had a face the doorman liked AND the 
hundred bashari cover charge and was allowed in without being beaten to a pulp (as I 
saw happen to some other hapless fellow).  The music is loud and tasteless, as are the 
women--apparently there is a house rule that the only women allowed are sluts or 
royalty.  There is gambling, regulated by the house and the house takes profits from 
all winners.  The drinks are watery.  The house rules are strict.  I got out before I 
was thrown out.
     In Talcama, if you're in the mood to be silly, stop by at the House of Jello and 
watch the wrestling matches.  Apparently, better food and drink is served upstairs, 
but the entire purpose of the House of Jello is to go down to the pit and watch the 
action.  It's just for fun, and that it is.  If you're there, go.
     I found the Choking Ogre in Cliffhome, and I enjoyed it tremendously.  It is an 
extensive building with a high ceiling, a combination tavern and gamehouse.  The food 
is excellent--daring, spicy, and dramatic, presented well and cooked to perfection. 
The portions are healthy, as are the drinks--sometimes necessary when having the Hot 
Spiced Miniature Potatoes!  Everything is reasonably priced.
     In Rocanis, there were too many taverns to choose from.  The Wanton Troll, 
Mylar's, the Grub & Rub Bar & Bistro, and on--I finally settled on the Wanton Troll, 
for its popularity.  The outside isn't promising, and being greeted by the six foot 
tall (and wide) proprietress, the wanton troll herself, Beulah, is a trifle 
frightening.  However, once you get past her (if you don't know the password, flirt a 
little with her and she'll let you in), you'll find it's all worth it.  It's a 
boisterous, crowded place, generally full of loud talk and laughter.  Hot and spicy 
food is plentiful, and the drinks are served in large, often iced, mugs.  On a good 
night both are excellent, although it sometimes depends on the cook.  It's always 
enjoyable, though, and it's a place I've been back to.
     Further north on the eastern side of Alastari, I found Salty's Chowder House in 
Morya--a seaport tavern inland; and worth it for the food, the house special Chowder.  
It's thick and filling and VERY tasty.  I was disappointed to find none of the more 
impressive drinks; southern wine for the most part, although Arkers pale ale in that 
neck of the woods is worth the price.
     In Lapur there were a number of taverns, with the Burned Tree (formerly the 
Gnarled Tree, before a fire gutted the old building; it has been re-built) being the 
first on my list--a pleasant place with excellent drinks but the food was only so-so 
without much of a selection.  The Blue Rose Tavern served up better food but only 
three varieties of beer and again, only southern wines.  The Drowned Rat offered an 
good whiskey but only had pretzels and nuts.
     I found a small tavern in Monuntial called Pontiff's Potent Potables; the food 
was plain fare of the meat & potatoes variety--unremarkable but plentiful and tasty, 
reasonably priced--HOWEVER, the excellent and exotic array of drinkables makes this a 
definite find.  Each of the drinks seems to have a quality all its own; you definitely 
leave feeling good.  Fighting is discouraged and weapons are checked at the door.  
Reservations are recommended.
     I cut back up to the Isle here, and found several excellent places.  Just outside 
Willow Beach, near the Darkholm arena, is the fabulous Eve's Palace Casino--upper 
crust, upper class, and definitely worth the price.  An excellent place to spend an 
evening.
     In Talahya, I stopped by E-Snee's Bar & Grill; ordinary food for ordinary prices.  
Generally good.  Nearby is the "food market," which is a block of restaurants of all 
kinds.  You can find everything from southern desert cuisine to the exotic stuff of 
the Northwights.  If you're on the Isle, you could try a new restaurant every day.  
Talahya's Market District is home to restaurants of every shape and size, serving food 
from all over Alastari and Lirith Kai.  Not far from the Primus Arena and the Grey 
Tower, this street of little restaurants, taverns, and theatres is a must if you are 
just passing through.  Check it out and you'll find what you're looking for, 
guaranteed.
     Over in Andorak, the Crimson Eagle caters to all whims; food, drink, lodging, 
gambling--a very classy-looking place, serves to all types and has a good selection.  
Also in Andorak you'll find the Sightless Dragon, a smaller but no less welcoming 
environment with excellent live music nightly.
     Close by, near the Home Guard arena, is the ever-popular Bash & Glug--food and 
drink, plenty of both, for a good price.  Fun, fights, & frolic is the rule here, no 
weapons allowed.  Their early morning breakfast bar is a MUST.  Also here is an Ice 
Cream Parlor under the name Arthur's Last Stand (I'll explain that shortly).  Exotic 
flavors, good on a hot day or any day.
     Arthur's Last Stand is a "chain" of taverns operated in the cities of Talcama, 
Caer, Morya, Dullens, and Willow Beach (Darkholm).  They are the same wherever you 
find them; friendly, with decent drinks and decent food.  Recommended if you are 
someplace that they are--familiar, comfortable surroundings.
     If you know of a tavern or eating establishment in your city that you would like 
to recommend, let us know about it!  

                                                                      -- Swift

                    JESSIE'S GUIDE TO A GOOD BASHER (3rd Edition)

     Greetings.  This is a 3rd edition of "Jessie's guide to a good BASHER."  I have a 
little more time to upgrade my second article to give you some more info regarding my 
favorite style.  The major changes are in the weapons and strategies section.  But 
read the whole thing, I've made other changes as well.  Also, this article doesn't 
discuss the SCUM basher or other mutant variations of this style.  It deals mainly 
with ones meant to last past 10-15 fights.
     Most new mangers or managers that don't run bashers that much don't understand 
how to make a good basher.  Needless to say, they don't run them right, either.  Even 
with my hoard of bashers, each one varies somewhat.
     The 4 MOST important things to a basher are DECISE skills, ATTACK skills, DAMAGE 
bonus, and maintaining the INITIATIVE.  This is also the order of importance as well.  
Bashers also learn ATTACK, DECISE and INITIATIVE skills faster than other skills.  
They are very similar to slashers in many ways.
     1.  DECISE SKILLS:  A basher needs to strike first, and this is why his number of 
decise skills must be high.  His bigger size will give him bonus DECISE skills, as 
well as bonus INITIATIVE skills.  Bashers have poor defense and parrying abilities, 
this is why they need to gain the initiative.  A BASHER'S best defense is a good 
OFFENSE.  Speed also gives decise skills. But I don't add to speed, 'cause speed isn't 
vital to a basher or his performance.
     2.  ATTACK:  After gaining the initiative, the number of attack skills will 
determine when he hits or not.  Bashers need to hit what they swing at, cause they may 
not get another chance to swing.  I recommend a 10+ base in attack for a basher.  This 
means he should have a HIGH ORDER WIT statement for attack.  The higher the attack 
rating, the easier it will be to get through the parries and dodges of the opponent.  
If you check the WIT statement chart and he doesn't have HIGH ORDER attack, he may not 
do well.
     3.  DAMAGE:  This is a MUST for any basher.  Would recommend no less than a GOOD 
DAMAGE rating.  I prefer GREAT DAMAGE for my bashers, or more.  A basher must be able 
to do ALOT of damage when he hits, 'cause he is trying to bring his opponent down 
fast.  Because he can't afford to let his opponent attack back with the low defensive 
abilities the basher has.  That is why he needs to make every hit count.
     4.  INITIATIVE:  He needs to start with at least a LOW ORDER initiative WIT 
statement.  He needs to maintain his attacks to get enough hits to bring his opponent 
down, so there is no counter-attack.  It does no good to strike first if he can't 
maintain his initiative.  Big size, high WIT, and high DEFTNESS will give your basher 
extra starting INITIATIVE skills.
     Designing a good basher doesn't take a rocket scientist.  If you've been 
wondering what to do with big guys, BASHER is the answer.  Bashers make excellent 
BASIC warriors.  And if you get one that has some defensive abilities as well as 
offense, he might be good at the higher levels of the game.  Smaller bashers that have 
higher skill bases fare better at higher levels of the game than bigger ones with less 
skill.  The only problem with small ones is surviving BASIC.  'Cause, they don't have 
the DAMAGE or HIT POINTS the big ones have.
     Strength:  10-17  Don't skimp, you need the damage.  But WIT is the first 
concern.  Strength is number 3 in the priority race.  You might need a little higher 
if you have a small one.  Remember you want to at least get a GOOD DAMAGE rating.  You 
can also train strength later, so don't worry about starting with it too high.  I 
always try to get odd numbers on strength, 'cause that's where most of the strength 
requirements are for basher weapons.  15, 17, 21 STR also give extra skills.
     Constitution:  6+   Try to get it to a least 6.  If you already have it above 6, 
don't add points here.  This is low priority for adding points.
     Size:  9+ is recommended, but I wouldn't go below 6 unless you got at least a 15 
strength.  If you have a size 15+, then you can go as low as 10 on the strength.  A 
QS, only needs an 11 strength to wield.  You can use it till you get a 12 or more 
strength to wield the bashers best weapon the WARHAMMER.  Don't forget big size!  12+ 
get bonus HIT POINTS, DECISE SKILLS, and INITIATIVE SKILLS.  But they also get a 
penalty in their starting DEFENSE skills.  Smaller ones, 8 or less, get bonus defense, 
but less hit points.  They also get hosed on DAMAGE bonus.  But, the smaller ones 
usually start out with more skills than the bigger ones.
     WIT:  15, 17 or 21.  Since a basher starts out with lower skill bases than most 
styles, he needs to learn fast.  Even if he is only an average basher, he can make up 
for it by learning fast.  Having a high WIT will help him learn fast.  If you have a 
slow learning basher, he won't be competitive after about 10 to 15 fights. The reason 
is because the other styles that start with more skills than a basher will pass him up 
in the skills department.  This will cause many losses and even death.  This is a 
number ONE priority when adding points.
     WILL:  If you can't get 15, 17, or 21, don't add points here.  WILL is not a 
basher priority.  If you want your basher to go to ADM, you need at least a 15 WILL.  
Bashers are low endurance burn, and don't need high endurance.  But it is nice to 
have.  Some of the best short term Bashers have low wills.
     Speed:  5+.  Speed is not a basher priority.  Don't add points here.  I don't 
like 3 speeds, I believe there is a voodoo curse that penalizes you too much.
     DEFTNESS:  Many managers skimp here.  DON'T SKIP on deftness.  I see many 
managers see that a roll up has low deftness and automatically say, "Make it a 
basher."  That greatly damages your basher.  For a lunger or slasher who already have 
ALOT of skill to start out with, it's okay to have a low deftness.  But not a basher 
who doesn't have those skills.  Deftness is where most of the bonus skills come from.  
Don't ROB your basher of the skills, he needs all he can get.  I recommend 13+.  11 is 
okay if you have a 17 or 21 WIT.  I never go below 9 deftness, period.
     BASHER WEAPONS:  After experimenting with all of the basher weapons extensively, 
I have more info in this area to give.

Basher Weapon Requirements :

Warhammer:  STR 13, Size 3, WIT 9, DEF 7

Mace:  Str 13, Size 3, WIT 7, DEF 5

Morning Star:  Str 13, Size 3, WIT 9, DEF 13

War Flail:  Str 11, Size 3, WIT 7, DEF 7

Quarterstaff: Str 11, Size 9, WIT 11, DEF 11

Great Axe: Str 13, Size 3, WIT 9, DEF 11

Great Sword: Str 15, Size 9, WIT 11, DEF 11

Maul: Str 15, Size 9, WIT 5, DEF 7

Halberd: Str 17, Size 9, WIT 11, DEF 11

Those weapons above are well suited to the basher.  Also, weapons that are marginally 
suitable are battle axe, broadsword, and fist.  You do get a little penalty for using 
marginally suitable weapons, but not enough to notice.  Your basher's favorite weapon 
can only be a well suited one.
     Besides strength, other important factors that determine what weapon you equip 
your basher with are ENDURANCE and current ATTACK skill level.
     If your basher has an ENDURANCE problem, use the QS or WH. Or if he is fighting 
against a heavy armored defensive style, these weapons are the best choice.  Warhammer 
is good against plate.  Don't use a ML or HL with an endurance problem, 'cause he 
won't last past round one.
     If your basher hasn't gained enough skill yet, and is being parried most of the 
time, use BIGGER weapons.  If you have the strength and endurance use the ML or HL.  
Using these weapons will increase the damage you do, making each hit count.  In basic, 
when weapon speed its a major factor, big weapons aren't really that slow.  It is very 
easy to a jump your opponent using a HL or ML, I do it all the time.
     Another tactic I use often with great success is using big weapons for light 
armor and lighter ones for heavy armor.  Most offensives in basic wear lighter armor 
and have fewer hit points.  Offensive styles are more deadly to bashers than defensive 
styles.  Therefore you need to bring them down as quickly as possible.  Using a HL or 
ML against scale armor or less, usually only takes one or 2 hits to bring an offensive 
style down.  Defensive styles parry and dodge a lot of your attacks, so you need a 
lighter weapon so you won't tire out quickly.  Using a warhammer for chainmail and 
above will let you last long enough to bring a defensive style down.  Warhammer also 
does very well against heavy armor.
     WARHAMMER: 13 STR required.  This is the BEST weapon for a basher without a 
doubt.  Its light weight and speed are unchallenged against all the other Basher 
weapons.  It also does a surprising amount of damage.  Can be used against all armors 
with great success.  This weapon rarely breaks.
     MACE: 13 STR required.  This is an okay weapon, but doesn't compare to the 
WARHAMMER.  It has problems inflicting damage.
     Morningstar: 13 STR and 13 DEFT required.  Does good damage, but is slow and 
heavy.  Isn't worth the endurance burn.
     War Flail: 11 STR required.  The is the WORST weapon in the game.  DON'T USE 
IT!!!!!  Damage for this weapon is very lame and I have see it bounce off of ALE and 
NO ARMOR opponents.  I believe daggers and fist do more damage!
     Quarterstaff: 11 STR and DEFT required.  This two handed weapon is light weight, 
quick and good against all armors.  This is a basher's fourth best weapon.  This 
weapon's main problem is that it breaks too much.  I use the FIST as a backup when I 
use the QS, so when it breaks he doesn't have to draw a backup weapon.  Offensive 
styles may not give you a chance to draw your backup weapon.  With a fist back-up you 
will continue attacking after your weapon has broken, maintaining your initiative.
     Great Axe:  13 STR and 11 DEFT required.  This is also much like the QS, but 
weighs a little more.  Does more damage than a QS.  It will tire your basher faster.  
This weapon also breaks a lot.
     Maul: 15 STR required.  Does massive damage, but is very heavy and tiresome.  
This weapon is a better all-around weapon than the halberd.  This is the 2nd best 
bashing weapon.
     Halberd:  17 Str required.  Does the most damage in the game.  This weapon also 
is only for those warriors who have the strength and the endurance for it. This is a 
basher's third best weapon.
     Greatsword:  15 STR required.  See WAR FLAIL.  This weapon also breaks a lot.
     Shields:  Are well suited to bashers, but don't ever use one.  They do hardly any 
damage.  Don't ever use a shield and any other weapon in a bashers OFF-HAND.  They 
rarely use their OFF-hand to parry and when they do use it to attack with, they do 
less damage.  When the computer gets to the part in the program where it selects which 
hand to use, you want him to use his PRIMARY weapon to do the most DAMAGE.  Not to 
pick an off-hand weapon that does lessor damage.  Also you get an attack bonus for 
using two hands with many weapons.
     Bashers favorite weapon:  Well, out of 90 Basher ADM graduates, the following is 
a list of their favorite weapons.

MS(9), MA(17), GA(5), GS(9), ML(9), WF(8), HL(8), WH(7), QS(9), ME(2), LG(8)

     You have to try each of them if you want to guess which one it is.  If you're 
lucky and get the WH, then praise the gods!!
     16 of the 90 bashers got the BASH tactic as their favorite tactic.  But I 
wouldn't use the BASH tactic; the DECISE tactic is awesome for a BASHER.  I use it 
with all my bashers.  Two bashers got DECISE as a favorite tactic.  Bash is only good 
to use against strong defensive styles after round one.  I have used the DEFENSE or 
PARRY Tactics in desperation with great success.  I will chose the one that the basher 
has a WIT statement in.  IE: If he has a DEFENSE statement, I use DEFENSE tactic in 
DESP. If a parry statement, then PARRY in DESP.  If neither, then PARRY 'cause it's 
almost always higher than DEFENSE for a basher.
     Basher Armor:  ALE/S or H to start.  If he doesn't seem to get the jump on most 
of his opponents, then go to heavy armor.  You can `sponge' your opponents by taking 
hits and hope to hit them when they're tired.  But if they do to much damage to you 
first, you will lose.
     Favorite Rhythms:  Offensive effort should be between 8-10 the first minute and 
5-8 there after.  In DESP. 5-10.  Activity Level should be 5-10 in the first minute 
and 1-3 thereafter.  IN DESP between 1-10.  KD between 5-7 all rounds.

Typical Strategy:

MIN:  1    2    3    4    5    6    DESP
========================================
OFF. 10    8    5    5    5    5     10
----------------------------------------
AVT. 10    1    1    1    1    1      6
----------------------------------------
KD.   7    6    6    6    6    6      6
----------------------------------------
Att. RA   RA   RA   RA   RA   RA     RA
----------------------------------------
Pro. HE   HE   HE   HE   HE   HE     HE 
----------------------------------------
TAC. DECISE in minute one.  Bash in later minutes against scum or heavy defensive 
styles.  Defense or Parry in DESP.

If you aim for the limbs, you can take your opponent down quickly.  Bashers tend to 
hit the upper half of the body more anyhow.
     Well, that's a wrap.  If you would like to chat, get charts, or learn all the 
stuff RSI doesn't tell you, drop me a line. You can diplo me in Primus DM102, "The 
Joker's WILD" or any one of my others teams that are too numerous  to list. Also, you 
can EMAIL me at 103260.3347@compuserve.com

                                                                 Ta-Ta,  
                                                                 Sir Jessie Jest
                                                                 The Basher Guy

               NEW GRADUATES--FROM ALL ARENAS (INCLUDING CLOSED ARENAS)

For those of you who keep track of such things, several additional warriors 
graduated from regular DM arenas (including closed arenas) since the last tournament. 

                     RUFF RUFF (47-8860) SPROUT OF MY MIND  (816) 
                        SECURE DEFENS (75-490) CRITICALS  (13) 
                    DARKBLADE (60-8827) SUPERIOR FORCES 60  (654) 
                      PEARL (82-44728) SUPE FORCES 7609  (7525) 
                 WAKE FOREST (82-54796) SUPERIOR FORCES 1802  (9245) 
                     CHERUB ROCK (84-29155) SIAMESE DREAM  (5164) 
                   HOMECOMING QUEEN (84-34481) DM:EPISODE 2  (6034) 
                     EXPENSIVE KIND (85-696) PILL-BOX HAT  (136) 

Congrats to the grads. -- Green Eyes